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Big Dipper

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 15 January 2025, by Richard Thomson.

Permission is required to cross private land. Log in for contact details.

Grade
25
Length
300m
0
Natural pro required
Quality
0
First ascent
Bill McLeod, Peter Dickson, 1991
Located on
Hourglass & Centre Walls
Topo ref
BD

Tackles the most impressive features on the wall. Climb over three sets of overhangs to reach the big arch. Through this and across the big roof (crux, bolts) and straight up the wall above.

The wall to the right of Fiddler on the Roof. Climb goes up through the obvious arch below the main roof, then through the main roof and on to the top.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 40m
  • Trad

Begin at the base of obvious corner (the steep ramp 60m left of Hourglass routes). Climb onto pedestal three metres up but do not follow corner. Ascend the face to the right of corner to a ledge and belay bolt beneath first overhang.

  • P2
  • 20
  • 40m
  • Trad

Directly through overhang to a solid flake. Straight up fine featured rock past a block. Beneath the next overhang move left and up across immaculate rock. Step left around corner and up to a belay bolt.

  • P3
  • 20
  • 45m
  • Trad

Move left then up wall beneath arch. A weakness in the roof of the arch (marked by a bush) allows access onto the wall above. Trend slightly right to ledge and double belay bolts.

  • P4
  • 25
  • 25m
  • Trad

From belay ascend roof via left trending feature. Four bolts protect the roof. A camming device can be used before the first bolt. Above roof climb past two more bolts to the right edge of an overlap. The last moves are protected by wires. Above the overlap is a belay bolt.

  • P5
  • 14
  • 30m
  • Trad

Move up and left past obvious crack line. Bolt belay.

  • P6
  • 20
  • 40m
  • Trad

Continue up crack line which dwindles to a seam. Get your wires right. Up onto main ledge and a bolt belay on the wall.

  • P7
  • 19
  • 40m
  • Trad

Climb wall above belay, then up face past two bolts. Continue straight up to overlap which is climbed on good jugs to reach belay bolt.

  • P8
  • 16
  • 40m
  • Trad

Directly up face heading for an obvious notch near the left end of the summit overlap. Belay bolt on top, just through the notch.

Comments
Attribution
The Canterbury Mountaineer
UUID
 
dac5903e-92f6-4565-a767-bb6874fedac5