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The Big Bang Area

Type
Part of

A motley collection of routes with a couple of gems between Andromeda Buttress and the South West Arête, generally 10–15 metres long.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Lunatic Fringe, 13 13 0m
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • Trad

The arête, bulge, and jam crack just right.


 White Dwarf, 11 11 0m
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • Trad

The deep corner on the south-west arête.


 Galileo, 22 22 0m 1
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • 1
  • Trad

The right-hand skyline - you can see it from Lyttelton. On the arête at the far right of the face, with cams and a bolt at the top. Up the arête using the crack, then surmount the ledge and balance up to finish slightly left. Technical and gymnastic.


 Skinny Bastards Revenge, 11 11 0m
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • Trad

Just left of the south-west arête is an off-width. Climb one of the two cracks at the bottom (left is easier) to the ledge then post yourself in the slot... Not for the claustrophobic.


 Slot B, 22 22 0m
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

A major struggle just right. Climb the overhang to an awkward position below the slot. Pull through somehow to gain the slab, and continue up the easy crack. Good protection.


 Tab A, 19 19 0m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

Overhanging right-leaning crack system right of Aurora. Climb the overhang and grovel up. Step right to the slab and continue easily up over blocks. Good protection.


 Aurora, 14 14 0m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

The right-leaning, overhanging, broken corner a metre right. Bridging with good holds and jams, sustained. Often wet.


 Challenger, 22 22 0m
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

Starts as for PTN and climbs the overhanging crack with spaced natural protection. The deep fist/hand crack thins to slopers then finger locks. A little loose on the top wall. Save a #1 cam or two for the top overhang. Strenuous and serious. Try not to explode before you top out!


 Pickin' The Nose, 22 22 0m 2
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • 2
  • Trad

Prominent arête right of the steep brown wall. Up the hand/fist crack for a couple of metres, then swing across to the arête via sharp ledges. Up the arête then right at the overhang. Run it out up the arête. Two bolts plus natural protection. Technical and committing. Use the Houdini anchor rings.


 Cosmic Debris, 17 17 0m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

Two steep thin cracks lead to a ledge four metres up, and a wide curving crack. A technical start.


 Houdini's Nightmare, 19 19 0m 1
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 1
  • Trad

Start on the left side and trend right to a small ledge and protection. Then up the wall past the bolt. Anchor rings. The bolt was placed later.


 Black Hole, 19 19 0m
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

Start in the black cave and bridge out until the crack on the right can be reached. Climb this to the top. Technical and committing, but well-protected. Anchor rings.


 Southern Cross, 14 14 0m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Climb the undercut arête just left of the black cave on reasonable holds. Step across to the corner to finish.


 Big Bang, 16 16 0m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

Start up the clean-cut left-facing roofed corner (bridging), and move out to the right under the square roof, which is more intimidating than difficult. Finish straight up or abseil off a bush.


 Zodiac, 18 18 0m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Trad

The wall with a flaring crack. Straight up with dubious protection, moving left below the headwall, and then right to the sloping ledge and exit overhang.  Needs cleaning. Sustained.


 Orion, 14 14 0m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Start on the wall left of Zodiac and move onto the arête. Delicate climbing with adequate pro behind the flake/crack.


 Extraterrestrial Crack, 14 14 0m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

The undercut crack. Technical and strenuous start, followed by bridging and jamming.


 Clostridium, 13 13 0m
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • Trad

The knobbly wall and gully above. The start is undercut and strenuous. Then climb the groove, with a move right at about 5m. Take a central line to finish.


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