A motley collection of routes with a couple of gems between Andromeda Buttress and the South West Arête, generally 10–15 metres long.
Type:
Wall

Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Aurora | 14 |
|
||||||||
The right-leaning, overhanging, broken corner a metre right. Bridging with
good holds and jams, sustained. Often wet. Lindsay Main, 1979
|
||||||||||
Tab A | 19 |
|
||||||||
Overhanging right-leaning crack system right of Aurora. Climb the overhang
and grovel up. Step right to the slab and continue easily up over blocks.
Good protection. Phil Stuart-Jones, 1993
|
||||||||||
Slot B | 22 |
|
||||||||
A major struggle just right. Climb the overhang to an awkward position below
the slot. Pull through somehow to gain the slab, and continue up the easy
crack. Good protection. Phil Stuart-Jones, 1993.
|
||||||||||
Skinny Bastards Revenge | 11 |
|
||||||||
Just left of the south-west arête is an off-width. Climb one of the two
cracks at the bottom (left is easier) to the ledge then post yourself in the
slot... Not for the claustrophobic. John Davis, 1993
|
||||||||||
Galileo | 22 |
|
||||||||
The right-hand skyline - you can see it from Lyttelton. On the arête at the
far right of the face, with cams and a bolt at the top. Up the arête using
the crack, then surmount the ledge and balance up to finish slightly left.
Technical and gymnastic. Joe Arts, 1996.
|
||||||||||
Clostridium | 13 |
|
||||||||
The knobbly wall and gully above. The start is undercut and strenuous. Then
climb the groove, with a move right at about 5m. Take a central line to
finish.
Tim Wethey, 1978
|
||||||||||
White Dwarf | 11 |
|
||||||||
The deep corner on the south-west arête. Lindsay Main, 1978.
|
||||||||||
Extraterrestrial Crack | 14 |
|
||||||||
The undercut crack. Technical and strenuous start, followed by bridging and
jamming. Lindsay Main, 1978.
|
||||||||||
Lunatic Fringe | 13 |
|
||||||||
The arête, bulge, and jam crack just right. Lindsay Main, 1978
|
||||||||||
Orion | 14 |
|
||||||||
Start on the wall left of Zodiac and move onto the arête. Delicate climbing
with adequate pro behind the flake/crack. Lindsay Main, 1980
|
||||||||||
Zodiac | 18 |
|
||||||||
The wall with a flaring crack. Straight up with dubious protection, moving
left below the headwall, and then right to the sloping ledge and exit
overhang. Needs cleaning. Sustained. Lindsay Main, 1980
|
||||||||||
Big Bang | 16 |
|
||||||||
Start up the clean-cut left-facing roofed corner (bridging), and move out to
the right under the square roof, which is more intimidating than difficult.
Finish straight up or abseil off a bush. Lindsay Main, 1978
|
||||||||||
Southern Cross | 14 |
|
||||||||
Climb the undercut arête just left of the black cave on reasonable holds.
Step across to the corner to finish. Lindsay Main, 1979
|
||||||||||
Black Hole | 19 |
|
||||||||
Start in the black cave and bridge out until the crack on the right can be
reached. Climb this to the top. Technical and committing, but well-protected.
Anchor rings. John Howard (solo), 1979
|
||||||||||
Houdini's Nightmare | 19 |
|
||||||||
Start on the left side and trend right to a small ledge and protection. Then
up the wall past the bolt. Anchor rings. The bolt was placed later. Lindsay
Main, 1978
|
||||||||||
Cosmic Debris | 17 |
|
||||||||
Two steep thin cracks lead to a ledge four metres up, and a wide curving
crack. A technical start. Lindsay Main, 1978
|
||||||||||
Pickin' The Nose | 22 |
|
||||||||
Prominent arête right of the steep brown wall. Up the hand/fist crack for a
couple of metres, then swing across to the arête via sharp ledges. Up the
arête then right at the overhang. Run it out up the arête. Two bolts plus
natural protection. Technical and committing. Use the Houdini anchor rings.
Joe Arts, 1996.
|
||||||||||
Challenger | 22 |
|
||||||||
Starts as for PTN and climbs the overhanging crack with spaced natural
protection. The deep fist/hand crack thins to slopers then finger locks. A
little loose on the top wall. Save a #1 cam or two for the top overhang.
Strenuous and serious. Try not to explode before you top out! Phil
Stuart-Jones, 1997.
|
UUID:
55ef2415-fffb-438a-b8a8-9aec2269dc3f