Andromeda Buttress

Type

Part of

This prominent buttress has many of the best climbs of the cliff. The naturally protected routes (except for Cardiac Arête) finish on the ledge at half-height, while the two bolt-protected routes start from this ledge.

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
CA	CACardiac Arête, 18	18			0
P1 18 Trad Climb the small overhang then up the rounded arête and a short steep wall onto a ledge. Move right and climb the overhang (crux) and wall above, with subtle protection from small nuts.
RS	RSRed Shift, 18	18	28m	2	0
The clean finger crack in the wall left of Andromeda. Sustained. Anchor rings. P1 18 16m Trad The clean finger crack in the wall left of Andromeda. Sustained. Anchor rings. Marty Beare, 1979 P2 18 12m 2 Trad The wall above Red Shift. Tricky start past the first bolt - slightly to the right, and up to the second bolt. The exit onto the ledge is not very positive. Joe Arts, 1994
	Giant Space Bunnies From Jupiter, 20	20	16m		0
P1 20 16m Trad Nice moves on the rounded buttress right of Andromeda. Small wires for pro in places, but extremely committing.
	Space Oddity, 12	12	20m		0
P1 12 20m Trad The gully to the left of Andromeda Buttress. Start up either one of the two grooves (right is easier) to the grassy ledge. Continue up the steep corner above, climbing mainly on the right wall.
	Flailing Whales, 17	17	0m	2	1.02
P1 17 2 Trad The upper wall right of the gully. Start from the ledge on the upper north-facing wall, clip the bolt, and move up easier ground to the second bolt and up. There's a block up high which can be used for an anchor.
Qr	QrQuasar, 18	18	37m		0
P1 18 37m Trad Up the capped corner and move right at the roof (crux) to the top of Solar Flare.
	Solar Flare, 19	19	0m		1.02
P1 19 Trad Quite popular. Starts in the black corner behind a bush. Awkward to protect until established in the crack. Anchor rings as for Red Shift.
Ar	ArAndromeda, 20	20	16m		2.01
P1 20 16m Trad The left-facing corner. Technical and strenuous. Belay from a crack higher up.
SS	SSSteady State, 17	17	16m		1.02
P1 17 16m Trad The right-facing corner and crack. Move out to the arête at the top.
	Milky Way, 17	17	0m		0
P1 17 Trad The arête right of Steady State. Overhanging start without protection, but higher up the climb can be protected from Steady State.
	Sunspot, 16	16	0m		0
P1 16 Trad A short steep jam crack just to the right of Milky Way. Climb the crack on jams and positive holds, then bridge up the easy gully above.
	Brocken Spectre, 11	11	0m		0
P1 11 Trad A trivial variation – the minor arête just to the right of a vegetated corner. Good holds but the crack may need cleaning for protection.
	Lindsay's New Route, 18	18	0m		0
P1 18 Trad Start up the slab beside the grassy gully, steepening on to the wall. Place wires and move right to the arête and up (good cams).

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UUID

5c4f4314-a4db-4813-b433-565d56f8e145