Andromeda Buttress

(13 routes)

This prominent buttress has many of the best climbs of the cliff. The naturally protected routes (except for Cardiac Arête) finish on the ledge at half-height, while the two bolt-protected routes start from this ledge.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
New route 18
Start up the slab beside the grassy gully, steepening on to the wall. Place wires and move right to the arête and up (good cams). Lindsay Main 2008
Space Oddity 12 20m
The gully to the left of Andromeda Buttress. Start up either one of the two grooves (right  is easier) to the grassy ledge. Continue up the steep corner above, climbing mainly on the right wall.
Flailing Whales 17
The upper wall right of the gully. Start from the ledge on the upper north-facing wall, clip the bolt, and move up easier ground to the second bolt and up. There's a block up high which can be used for an anchor. Joe Arts, 1994.
CA Cardiac Arête 18
wire representing trad 1
Climb the small overhang then up the rounded arête and a short steep wall onto a ledge. Move right and climb the overhang (crux) and wall above, with subtle protection from small nuts.
John Barnett.
Qr Quasar 18 37m
Up the capped corner and move right at the roof (crux) to the top of Solar Flare.
Lindsay Main, 1979
Solar Flare 19
Quite popular. Starts in the black corner behind a bush. Awkward to protect until established in the crack. Anchor rings as for Red Shift.
Lindsay Main, 1979
RS Red Shift 18 ,18 28m
2bolts wire representing trad
The clean finger crack in the wall left of Andromeda. Sustained. Anchor rings.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

The clean finger crack in the wall left of Andromeda. Sustained. Anchor rings. Marty Beare, 1979


The wall above Red Shift. Tricky start past the first bolt - slightly to the right, and up to the second bolt. The exit onto the ledge is not very positive. Joe Arts, 1994

Marty Beare, 1979
Ar Andromeda 20 16m
The left-facing corner. Technical and strenuous. Belay from a crack higher up.
Lindsay Main, 1979
Giant Space Bunnies From Jupiter 20 16m
wire representing trad
Nice moves on the rounded buttress right of Andromeda. Small wires for pro in places, but extremely committing.
John Howard (solo), 1979
SS Steady State 17 16m
The right-facing corner and crack. Move out to the arête at the top.
Lindsay Main, 1979
Milky Way 17
The arête right of Steady State. Overhanging start without protection, but higher up the climb can be protected from Steady State.
John Howard, 1979
Sunspot 16
A short steep jam crack just to the right of Milky Way. Climb the crack on jams and positive holds, then bridge up the easy gully above.
Lindsay Main, 1979
Brocken Spectre 11
A trivial variation - the minor arête just to the right of a vegetated corner. Good holds but the crack may need cleaning for protection.
Lindsay Main, 1979