
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Bootless | 19 | 14m |
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Classic. First arete from the Summit Road end. Two bolts.
Joe Arts '93
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Spice | 20 | 15m |
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A cracked overhang on a small isolated buttress on the far L. Up the
overhang, then the slab.
Brian Fish '82
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Red Hot Chilli Peppers | 20 | 25m |
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Sloping overhang immediately right of Spice, over lip then up slab. CD's at
the lip and large CDs at the top.
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SO | Stepping Out | 15 | 15m |
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To the right of the next gully.
The obvious slab with a steep wall to start. One bolt is the only pro.
Rick McGregor (solo) '79
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Taking Off | 15 | 10m |
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The slab which begins 5m up and R of S.O.. Reach it either via Anorexic
Banana or from the top. Climb the slab just inside the line of the arete on
the L. No pro.
Rick McGregor (solo) '79
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Simple Sidle | 15 | 12m |
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Also on the T.O. slab. Start up the line of holds to the R of T.O. and follow
these until level with the top of the flakes. Move R, and then back L
diagonally to the top (crux). Zero pro.
Rick McGregor (solo) '79
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AB | Anorexic Banana | 11 | 25m |
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The prominent arete to the R of the slabs. Climb the overhang at the bottom
at the point of least resistance and proceed up the line of the rib.
Lindsay Main (solo) '79
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RA | Big Red Arete | 18 | 25m |
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Up A.B.. Move R across grassy slabs to spike. R to arete and up.
John Howard
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The Empty Quarter | 20 | 20m |
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Black overhanging wall. Bolt belay off to left.
Joe Arts '93
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Ps | Psychoslut | 18 | 20m |
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3m L of the next rib (which is capped by a roof 15m up). Up a steep groove,
past a sloping roof, and up the broken corner above. Variation start: Up the
obvious crack to the dead tree, traverse L to join direct line.
Brent Davis
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un-named | 17 | 20m |
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Climb arete to single bolt belay with two old krabs.
Rob Battersby '93
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KM | To Kill a Mockingbird | 24 | 25m |
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Climb through jumble of overhangs. Three bolts and natural pro.
Joe Arts '93
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un-named | 19 | 25m |
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Up a steep wall/arete to the belay bolt on TKAM.
Hamish Dunn '93
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Brent's Route | 18 | 20m |
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Starts 4m R of rib. Up steep cracks and through the overhang.
Brent Davis
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Ub | Ubique | 19 | 40m |
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A prominent corner capped by a large overhang. Climb to below the L side of
the overhang. Traverse R across the wall to the ledge at the foot of the
(promine nt) crack. Climb this (crux), and continue round the arete to small
bush. Then up to the belay ledge. Or finish directly up the crack (about 21,
Brent Davis).
Rick McGregor
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NG | Nocturnal Goatsucker | 19 | 40m |
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A R variation start to Ubique, joining it at the ledge below the prominent
exit crack.
Brent Davis '80
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Ad | Afterdinnermint | 23 |
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A 4m 45 degree roof with a fingercrack. Belay on ledge. A second pitch goes
up a black wall.
John Howard '80
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Hypochrondria | 17 | 30m |
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Up the square-cut corner (good pro at crux) to a scoop below small bulge,
which is turned on the R past the vege. Finish up the rib.
Lindsay Main '79
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Astigmatism | 17 | 25m |
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An indeterminant crack-line to the R of the large overhangs. Cruxes on the
first and last bulges. Unreliable rock.
Lindsay Main '79
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Fester | 18 |
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Starts in L-facing corner (good pro). L onto the wall, bridge up L to a
recess (poor pro), exit L off a square block.
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Hedonist | 11 | 30m |
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The next routes are well to the R, past the gorse-filled gully.
R of some easy slabs, a long L-angling corner. Steep at the bottom.
Andrew Smith (solo) '74
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Delusions of Grandeur | 16 | 25m |
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Start up Hedonist to where it gets easy. A small flake leads across the R
wall to the finish of Spunk.
Lindsay Main
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Spunk | 14 | 25m |
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3m R of H. An obvious crack in a V-groove.
Andrew Smith (solo)
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Red Rooster | 13 | 20m |
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2m R of S., a corner with a wide crack with a red R wall.
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Interjection | 13 | 20m |
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4m R of R.R.. A technical start followed by a grassy gully.
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Devil's Advocate | 10 |
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Follows a series of flakes. Steepest at the bottom.
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Asthmatic Hedgehog | 17 | 18m |
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A sharp-cut corner. Crux about 4m up.
Hugh Logan '74
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Comments
Now is the time to go to
Now is the time to go to check out this crag, a fire has recently been trough here and burnt the gorse leaving a surreal scorched forest which breaks easy and a trail can quickly be trodden, just don't wear your Sunday best. So a good time to go and blaze a trail before the gorse comes back hard and fast. Excellent place for a day out on the rock, this place need traffic people! Go get some.