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Third Cliff

Type
Altitude
660m

The third in the series. Perhaps the most prominent, and probably the nicest one to climb on, but unfortunately quite limited. There are good boulders for anchors at the top.

Walktime
10 min
Aspect
West
Approach

If the farm track is dry you can drive along about 500 metres to the gate and park there. GThis crag is dorectly opposite over the ridge, with about 100 metres walk. Cut down through the scrub on the north side of the crag, zig-zgging around a bit to find the best route.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Comfortably Pleasant, 16 16 18m
1.02

  • P1
  • 16
  • 18m
  • Trad

Double cracks L of the arete, through short corner with red lichen on R wall.


 Delusion, 18 18 18m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 18m
  • Trad

Start up the right crack of CF and step around on to the arête above the overhang. Pleasant climbing well-protected with micro-cams directly up the arête and over the small bulge.


 Goodbye And Good Riddance, 17 17
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

To the R is a wide groove. Start on the R side and up the groove for 10m, then up & L to obvious V on LH side of groove. Up this, step L onto ledge, then up steep crack in final wall.


 Crusty Old Salts, 14 14
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • Trad

Same start, continue up the with a move R at the blocks to good pro on the arete, then back to the main groove.


 Cracked Pepper, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

To the R is a large flake. Up the LH side (small tree), up a groove to final roof. Either over this (16) or escape R (13)


 Scrubba Dub Dub, 13 13
0

  • P1
  • 13
  • Trad

Up the L-R crack across the flake, onto ledge and up easy angled corner


 Scary Monsters, 16 16 15m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • Trad

Around the buttress to the right is a prominent corner/gully with large boulders perched above on the right. Start up the right crack to avoid vege; then step left and pull through (crux) over the steep bit and into the corner with trees. Stay on the left and bridge over wide cracks to the exit.


 Tactical Error, 16 16 15m
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 15m
  • Trad

Starts in the scrub up a steep corner-crack, progressing past the arete on the right. Climb into a wide crack formed by recent earthquake movement; then up right of the arete and over a block to the top.


Comments
Attribution
Alan Hill
UUID
 
1cfd1643-b917-4ae1-a918-8bc5b919c6a4