Second Cliff
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Jon's Chimney, 20 | 20 | 0m | |||||
Best approached from buttress toe; head left to slight clearing. Climb a groove and step left onto rib which leads to the chimney. Climb up inside to good chockstone protection, then climb the outside of the chimney (crux) to gain the top. Thin people may be able to climb the inside at a lower grade. |
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Coco, 12 | 12 | 28m | |||||
Climb the crack behind the bush on the left side of the pillar. From the top take the crack on the left to a ledge and climb the chimney, using the crack on the left for gear. |
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Skin And Bone, 18 | 18 | ||||||
Climbs from the toe of the buttress starting R of big flakey block. Gain block, move up and R to the arete and up to small roof with crack. Move L and up, then wide crack with chockstones on L to gain block. Short wall to finish. |
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Crestfallen, 19 | 19 | 25m | |||||
An attempt to climb the prow of the buttress directly. Start right at he base and climb up on good holds past reasonable gear to the smooth section. Move left to the corner and ledge, place gear in the thin crack, and head back to the arête (crux). Then easily up the arête past various cracks and ledges. |
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Malthus, 16 | 16 | ||||||
On the face around to the R. There is a large bush at 8m. The groove with crack a few metres R. Awkward start to gain niche above fern. |
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Decrepitude, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Start 7m R of totara, at a LW slanting slab. From grassy platform near its foot climb a short wall to a bulge (good gear). Move L on good jugs to gain a higher slab (crux), move and and RWs through short groove. |
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Crack In The Mirror, 14 | 14 | ||||||
On the Two And A Bit Cliff, a smaller outcrop just beyond the fenceline. Start near the LH side, up to OH, then up and R along crack to join the chimney. |
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Gently Does It, 12 | 12 | ||||||
The flakes climbed from the toe of the buttress. |
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Wētā Crack, 12 | 12 | 10m | |||||
Near the right edge of the crag, accessed from the south side. Obvious wide crack of little difficulty. |