NOTE THAT THIS CRAG IS CLOSED FOR TWO WEEKS UNTIL ABOUT 13th MAY WHILE GOAT ERADICATION IS TAKING PLACE IN THE LITTLE RIVER AREA.
This is a small crag on private land high above Little River. The crag faces south and suits a warm and calm day.The rock is typical Banks Peninsula basalt, and the routes are about 10-20 metres long. Previously it was named after one of the climbs, Screaming Whippets, but has been renamed to reflect local nomenclature for the hill.
Towards the left end is a large roof above a L facing corner with bush. This is Thief of Time, while Green Groove is the groove/crack just L.
The owner is Mark Latham of 45 Western Valley Road; however the farm is leased to Peter Wright. Phone him at 021 377 750 for permission.
The crag is accessed from Council Hill Road, at the main intersection in Little River. At the end of the road follow the track up the valley and cross the stream on the fancy bridge, then strike up the hill west of the fence. Cross the top fence and sidle to the base of the crag
Routes
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Spare Rib, 15 | 15 |  |
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Start on large block, LW up crack, then horizontals to rib with OH. Follow. |
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| Petite Features, 20 | 20 | |
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Thin vertical crack 1m R. |
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| Grey Power, 19 | 19 | |
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Just R again is a thin crack with break on L. Up this (start from block on R) then left with feet in break, and up slabs. |
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| Fuschia Groove, 19 | 19 | |
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3m R is a groove with twin thin seams, small fuschia at bottom. Up this, then finish up the RH of two grooves. |
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| Peenuts, 19 | 19 | |
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Just to R is a RW trending crack/groove, continue up face then move R to finish up corner (or finish more directly up arete as for next route) |
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| Yo Ho Ho And A Bottle Of Rum, 19 | 19 | |
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The next groove is unclimbed, then down and 2m R is a groove/crack above shrub and horizontal crack at 2m. Continue up the arete to the L of Peenuts corner. |
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| Screaming Whippets, 16 | 16 | |
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To the R is an arched cave. Groove with crack and bush just R of cave, finishing up juggy corner with rata vine. |
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| The Baldest, 18 | 18 | |
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The broad rib to the R. Good micro cam in break. |
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| Always Take The Whether, 20 | 20 | |
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Just R, behind flax. R trending crack, finishing as for Screaming Whippets (18), or directly via the L-trending corner crack (20). |
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| Red Reckam’s Treasure, 15 | 15 | |
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The rib just R of vegetated groove with flax, starting from the L and working RW to the break. |
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| Raving Iron, 20 | 20 | |
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5m R of ATTW is a groove with piton. Up this, move L and through stepped roof. |
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| Green Groove, 16 | 16 | |
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Groove with veg L of big roof above L facing corner |
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| Thief Of Time, 21 | 21 | |
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Climb the corner with shrub to the OH. Traverse L under the roof and up corner. |
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| Rubble To Ritz, 14 | 14 | |
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Climb to shrub below big roof, step R and finish up RH side of roof. |
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| Flax Attack, 22 | 22 | |
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10m to the R. Stepped R-facing corner above LH end of ledge which slopes down to the R. Finish through the roof. |
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| Irn Bru, 23 | 23 | |
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Made from girders. Curved crack to the R. |
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| Baba Ghanoojh, 14 | 14 | |
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Just R, cracked groove with bush, capped by roof. |
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| Southerly Front, 18 | 18 | |
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6m R. Corner with thin crack. Cams to XL. |
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| The Quest For The Black Spot, 13 | 13 | |
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4m R, just past groove with flax. Gain groove just R of the edge (crux) and up (easy but poor pro) to the base of final wall with skyline flax. Head LW up groove with bush and up chimney with blocks. |
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| Harry’s Memorial Route, 16 | 16 | |
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5m R are two adjacent corners capped by blocky OHs. The RH corner, exiting R onto Didymo. |
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| Didymo, 13 | 13 | |
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The arete to the R, just L of bush |
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| Karl’s Route, 14 | 14 | |
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Another 5m R, the short brown face |
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