Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Spare Rib | 15 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
Start on large block, LW up crack, then horizontals to rib with OH. Follow.
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Karl Yager 2006
|
||||||||||
Petite Features | 20 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
Thin vertical crack 1m R.
Peter Whitworth, Jo Arts & Alan Hill 2009
|
||||||||||
Grey Power | 19 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
Just R again is a thin crack with break on L. Up this (start from block on R) then left with feet in break, and up slabs.
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Matt Ware 2006
|
||||||||||
Fuschia Groove | 19 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
3m R is a groove with twin thin seams, small fuschia at bottom. Up this, then finish up the RH of two grooves.
Peter Gresham, Eric Stevens and Alan Hill 2006
|
||||||||||
Peenuts | 19 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
Just to R is a RW trending crack/groove, continue up face then move R to finish up corner (or finish more directly up arete as for next route)
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Karl Yager 2006
|
||||||||||
Yo Ho Ho And A Bottle Of Rum | 19 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
The next groove is unclimbed, then down and 2m R is a groove/crack above shrub and horizontal crack at 2m. Continue up the arete to the L of Peenuts corner.
Joe Arts and Alam Hill 2009
|
||||||||||
Screaming Whippets | 16 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
To the R is an arched cave.
Groove with crack and bush just R of cave, finishing up juggy corner with rata vine.
Eric Stevens, Alan Hill & Pete Gresham 2006
|
||||||||||
The Baldest | 18 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
The broad rib to the R. Good micro cam in break.
Alan Hill, Joe Arts, Peter Whitworth
|
||||||||||
Always Take The Whether | 20 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
Just R, behind flax. R trending crack, finishing as for Screaming Whippets (18), or directly via the L-trending corner crack (20).
FA Alan Hill, Pete Gresham and Eric Stevens 2006 (18); direct finish: Lindsay Main, 2009 (20).
|
||||||||||
Red Reckam’s Treasure | 15 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
The rib just R of vegetated groove with flax, starting from the L and working RW to the break.
Joe Arts and Felix Collins
|
||||||||||
Raving Iron | 20 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
5m R of ATTW is a groove with piton. Up this, move L and through stepped roof.
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Matt Ware 2006
|
||||||||||
Green Groove | 16 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
Groove with veg L of big roof above L facing corner
Pete Gresham, Eric Stevens and Alan Hill 2006
|
||||||||||
Thief Of Time | 21 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
Climb the corner with shrub to the OH. Traverse L under the roof and up corner.
Alan Hill and Peter Whitworth 2009
|
||||||||||
Rubble To Ritz | 14 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
Climb to shrub below big roof, step R and finish up RH side of roof.
Eric Stevens, Alan Hill & Matt Ware 2006
|
||||||||||
Flax Attack | 22 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
10m to the R. Stepped R-facing corner above LH end of ledge which slopes down to the R. Finish through the roof.
Josh Hudson, Joe Arts and Alan Hill 2009
|
||||||||||
Irn Bru | 23 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
Made from girders. Curved crack to the R.
Alan Hill, Josh Hudson and Joe Arts 2009
|
||||||||||
Baba Ghanoojh | 14 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
Just R, cracked groove with bush, capped by roof.
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Matt Ware 2006
|
||||||||||
Southerly Front | 18 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
6m R. Corner with thin crack. Cams to XL.
Joe Arts, Josh Hudson and Alan Hill 2009
|
||||||||||
The Quest For The Black Spot | 13 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
4m R, just past groove with flax. Gain groove just R of the edge (crux) and up (easy but poor pro) to the base of final wall with skyline flax. Head LW up groove with bush and up chimney with blocks.
Alan Hill and Peter Whitworth 2009
|
||||||||||
Harry’s Memorial Route | 16 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
5m R are two adjacent corners capped by blocky OHs.
The RH corner, exiting R onto Didymo.
Peter Whitworth & Alan Hill 2009
|
||||||||||
Didymo | 13 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
The arete to the R, just L of bush
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Karl Yager 2006
|
||||||||||
Karl’s Route | 14 |
|
![]() |
|||||||
Another 5m R, the short brown face
Karl Yager Alan Hill & Eric Stevens 2006
|
Screaming Whippets Crag
(22 routes)
This is a small crag on private land high above Little River. The crag faces south and suits a warm and calm day.The rock is typical Banks Peninsula basalt, and the routes are about 10-20 metres long.
Towards the left end is a large roof above a L facing corner with bush. This is Thief of Time, while Green Groove is the groove/crack just L.
The owner is Mark Latham of 45 Western Valley Road; however the farm is leased to Peter Wright. Phone him at 021 377 750 for permission.
The crag is accessed from Council Hill Road, at the main intersection in Little River. At the end of the road follow the track up the valley and cross the stream on the fancy bridge, then strike up the hill west of the fence. Cross the top fence and sidle to the base of the crag