2. NZ
  3. South Island
  4. Banks Peninsula
  5. Screaming Whippets Crag

Screaming Whippets Crag

(22 routes)

This is a small crag on private land high above Little River. The crag faces south and suits a warm and calm day.The rock is typical Banks Peninsula basalt, and the routes are about 10-20 metres long.

Towards the left end is a large roof above a L facing corner with bush. This is Thief of Time, while Green Groove is the groove/crack just L.

Type: 
Crag
Altitude: 
500m
Aspect: 
South
Walk time: 
45 minutes.
Access: 

The owner is Mark Latham of 45 Western Valley Road; however the farm is leased to Peter Wright. Phone him at 021 377 750 for permission.

The crag is accessed from Council Hill Road, at the main intersection in Little River. At the end of the road follow the track up the valley and cross the stream on the fancy bridge, then strike up the hill west of the fence. Cross the top fence and sidle to the base of the crag

New Zealand map

Map, Topo

Lat/Lon: 
-43.755140390000, 172.780083730000
NZMS260: 
N36 923169
Topo50: 
BX24 823 553
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Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Spare Rib 15
0
 wire representing trad
Start on large block, LW up crack, then horizontals to rib with OH. Follow.
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Karl Yager 2006
Petite Features 20
0
 wire representing trad
Thin vertical crack 1m R.
Peter Whitworth, Jo Arts & Alan Hill 2009
Grey Power 19
0
 wire representing trad
Just R again is a thin crack with break on L. Up this (start from block on R) then left with feet in break, and up slabs.
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Matt Ware 2006
Fuschia Groove 19
1.02
 wire representing trad
3m R is a groove with twin thin seams, small fuschia at bottom. Up this, then finish up the RH of two grooves.
Peter Gresham, Eric Stevens and Alan Hill 2006
Peenuts 19
0
 wire representing trad
Just to R is a RW trending crack/groove, continue up face then move R to finish up corner (or finish more directly up arete as for next route)
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Karl Yager 2006
Yo Ho Ho And A Bottle Of Rum 19
0
 wire representing trad
The next groove is unclimbed, then down and 2m R is a groove/crack above shrub and horizontal crack at 2m. Continue up the arete to the L of Peenuts corner.
Joe Arts and Alam Hill 2009
Screaming Whippets 16
0
 wire representing trad
To the R is an arched cave. Groove with crack and bush just R of cave, finishing up juggy corner with rata vine.
Eric Stevens, Alan Hill & Pete Gresham 2006
The Baldest 18
0
 wire representing trad
The broad rib to the R. Good micro cam in break.
Alan Hill, Joe Arts, Peter Whitworth
Always Take The Whether 20
0
 wire representing trad
Just R, behind flax. R trending crack, finishing as for Screaming Whippets (18), or directly via the L-trending corner crack (20).
FA Alan Hill, Pete Gresham and Eric Stevens 2006 (18); direct finish: Lindsay Main, 2009 (20).
Red Reckam’s Treasure 15
0
 wire representing trad
The rib just R of vegetated groove with flax, starting from the L and working RW to the break.
Joe Arts and Felix Collins
Raving Iron 20
1.02
 wire representing trad
5m R of ATTW is a groove with piton. Up this, move L and through stepped roof.
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Matt Ware 2006
Green Groove 16
0
 wire representing trad
Groove with veg L of big roof above L facing corner
Pete Gresham, Eric Stevens and Alan Hill 2006
Thief Of Time 21
2.01
 wire representing trad
Climb the corner with shrub to the OH. Traverse L under the roof and up corner.
Alan Hill and Peter Whitworth 2009
Rubble To Ritz 14
0
 wire representing trad
Climb to shrub below big roof, step R and finish up RH side of roof.
Eric Stevens, Alan Hill & Matt Ware 2006
Flax Attack 22
0
 wire representing trad
10m to the R. Stepped R-facing corner above LH end of ledge which slopes down to the R. Finish through the roof.
Josh Hudson, Joe Arts and Alan Hill 2009
Irn Bru 23
2.01
 wire representing trad
Made from girders. Curved crack to the R.
Alan Hill, Josh Hudson and Joe Arts 2009
Baba Ghanoojh 14
0
 wire representing trad
Just R, cracked groove with bush, capped by roof.
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Matt Ware 2006
Southerly Front 18
0
 wire representing trad
6m R. Corner with thin crack. Cams to XL.
Joe Arts, Josh Hudson and Alan Hill 2009
The Quest For The Black Spot 13
0
 wire representing trad
4m R, just past groove with flax. Gain groove just R of the edge (crux) and up (easy but poor pro) to the base of final wall with skyline flax. Head LW up groove with bush and up chimney with blocks.
Alan Hill and Peter Whitworth 2009
Harry’s Memorial Route 16
0
 wire representing trad
5m R are two adjacent corners capped by blocky OHs. The RH corner, exiting R onto Didymo.
Peter Whitworth & Alan Hill 2009
Didymo 13
0
 wire representing trad
The arete to the R, just L of bush
Alan Hill, Eric Stevens & Karl Yager 2006
Karl’s Route 14
0
 wire representing trad
Another 5m R, the short brown face
Karl Yager Alan Hill & Eric Stevens 2006
Attribution: 
Alan Hill
UUID: 
0e92c162-ee57-48f2-a056-df9784f64f91