Main Wall

(10 routes)

This is the largest and most prominent wall, reaching 40 metres. Most of the routes are bolt-protected because the nature of the rock does not provide much natural protection.
The older routes run the full height of the crag, but several short and close-bolted routes have been added to provide a nursery area for beginner leaders.

Altitude: 
560m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
South East
Walk time: 
10 mins
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
The Redemptionists 21 45m
0
8bolts wire representing trad
Climb to the right-leaning ramp with natural protection and follow the bolts around and up to the steep wall. Climb the headwall past three bolts and some gear. There is a station at the top edge.
Joe Arts, 1990
Via Fidel 15 15m
0
6bolts
Slab route just right of the vegetated corner. Nice moves to the hidden station on the ledge by the vegetation.
Doog Menzies, 2012.
Uncle Helen 13 10m
0
4bolts
Easy short slab climb to the station at the change in angle.
Doog Menzies, 2012.
The Milk Snatcher 18 22m
0
8bolts
A longer, harder route starting at a small vegetated groove. Clip the first bolt right of the groove, and continue up the same line.
Doog Menzies, 2012.
Caesar's Slab 14 12m
0
5bolts
The start of Centurion, which can be done as a short route in its own right, to an awkwardly positioned station on the right. Cleaned and bolted by Doog Menzies.
Lindsay Main, 1990.
Centurion 18 40m
0
11bolts
Start about two metres left of the toe of the buttress and climb the slab with closely-spaced bolts. From the break the wall steepens and the bolts are more spaced. From the ledge surmount the upper break and follow the crack to the top past a dracophyllum bush.
Lindsay Main, 1990.
Journey to Ixtlan 17 40m
0
4bolts wire representing trad
On the buttress at the right side of the wall. Start by following the bolts on the toe of the buttress with good holds to the horizontal crack (protection). Slightly right and up on jugs. Where the wall steepens move left, up and back right to the obvious exit corner. Spaced protection.
Lindsay Main, 1980.
Original Route 15 28m
0
wire representing trad
A sinuous groove on the right side of the cliff. Up small slab to a horizontal crack with bulge above. From the crack step left (crux), then up and right following the groove. Spaced protection.
Lindsay Main, 1980.
Mind the Totara 17 20m
0
wire representing trad
Don't push the bush! Climb left-facing corner to bulge and gain leaning corner. Up low-angled wall past a small totara to the anchor. Sparse natural protection.
Joe Arts, 1990.
Addendum 16 20m
0
3bolts wire representing trad
Just left of the detached pillar, up the wall to a scoop, over the steeper bit past the bolts, and on to the arĂȘte moving slightly to the right to take advantage of good holds. Move cautiously up to place wires in the crack to the left, then scramble up the ridge to the anchor rings. Three bolts.
Lindsay Main, 1990.
UUID: 
3313acbe-effb-40de-98ce-325748823b45