This is the largest and most prominent wall, reaching 40 metres. Most of the routes are bolt-protected because the nature of the rock does not provide much natural protection.
The older routes run the full height of the crag, but several short and close-bolted routes have been added to provide a nursery area for beginner leaders.
Altitude:
560m
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
South East
Walk time:
10 mins
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| The Redemptionists | 21 | 45m |
|
8 |
 |
|||||
|
Climb to the right-leaning ramp with natural protection and follow the bolts around and up to the steep wall. Climb the headwall past three bolts and some gear. There is a station at the top edge.
Joe Arts, 1990
|
||||||||||
| Via Fidel | 16 | 15m |
|
6 |
||||||
|
Slab route just right of the vegetated corner. Nice moves to the hidden station on the ledge by the vegetation.
Doog Menzies, 2012.
|
||||||||||
| Uncle Helen | 13 | 10m |
|
4 |
||||||
|
Easy short slab climb to the station at the change in angle.
Doog Menzies, 2012.
|
||||||||||
| The Milk Snatcher | 18 | 22m |
|
8 |
||||||
|
A longer, harder route starting at a small vegetated groove. Clip the first bolt right of the groove, and continue up the same line to the anchor at 2/3 height, just right of the vegetation. Very often this route is wet, but even when dry it provides a worthwhile challenge.
Doog Menzies, 2012.
|
||||||||||
| To Play The King | 17 | 10m |
|
3 |
||||||
|
A rather trivial link up, starting at The Milk Snatcher. Clip the first two bolts and move up the smeary slab before moving right past the third bolt to the two-ring anchor at the top of Caesar’s Slab.
Lindsay Main, 2016.
|
||||||||||
| Caesar's Slab | 14 | 12m |
|
5 |
||||||
|
The start of Centurion, which can be done as a short route in its own right, to an awkwardly positioned station on the right. Cleaned and bolted by Doog Menzies.
Lindsay Main, 1990.
|
||||||||||
| Centurion | 18 | 40m |
|
11 |
||||||
|
Start about two metres left of the toe of the buttress and climb the slab with closely-spaced bolts. From the break the wall steepens and the bolts are more spaced. From the ledge surmount the upper break and follow the crack to the top past a dracophyllum bush.
Lindsay Main, 1990.
|
||||||||||
| Decurion | 15 | 12m |
|
4 |
||||||
|
The lower part of the next route has been set up as a sport route by retro-bolting it. There is a chain anchor above the four bolts.
Lindsay Main, 1980..
|
||||||||||
| Journey to Ixtlan | 17 | 40m |
|
4 |
|
|||||
|
On the buttress at the right side of the wall. Start by following the bolts on the toe of the buttress with good holds to the horizontal crack (protection). Slightly right and up on jugs. Where the wall steepens move left, up and back right to the obvious exit corner. Spaced protection.
Lindsay Main, 1980.
|
||||||||||
| Original Route | 15 | 28m |
|
|
||||||
|
A sinuous groove on the right side of the cliff. Up small slab to a horizontal crack with bulge above. From the crack step left (crux), then up and right following the groove. Spaced protection.
Lindsay Main, 1980.
|
||||||||||
| Mind the Totara | 17 | 20m |
|
|
||||||
|
Don't push the bush! Climb left-facing corner to bulge and gain leaning corner. Up low-angled wall past a small totara to the anchor. Sparse natural protection.
Joe Arts, 1990.
|
||||||||||
| Addendum | 16 | 20m |
|
3 |
|
|||||
|
Just left of the detached pillar, up the wall to a scoop, over the steeper bit past the bolts, and on to the arête moving slightly to the right to take advantage of good holds. Move cautiously up to place wires in the crack to the left, then scramble up the ridge to the anchor rings. Three bolts.
Lindsay Main, 1990.
|
||||||||||
UUID:
3313acbe-effb-40de-98ce-325748823b45