The Wok Face

Descriptions from R to L. The approach from The Monument saddle takes almost an hour, and the path leads to the RH end. The rock is excellent, up to 20m high, and many of the routes worthwhile. There are descents are either end of the cliff.
At the very RH end of the cliff is a laid back corner, just L of the short fence.

Type:

Wall

Title	Grade	Quality
No Strain At The Strainer	11	0
Climb the RH edge of the slab, awkward move at the top. Clip the fence for gear! John Veronese & Alan Hill 2000
Starting Point	11	0
Start at the foot of the corner. Climb up and gain the wide crack on the L. John Veronese & Alan Hill 2000
Y Fronts	15	0
4m L is a groove capped by a prow-shaped roof. Climb the groove to the roof and exit R (15) or L across slab to finish (13) FA 3/4/99 Paul Bingham & Alan Hill Paul Bingham & Alan Hill 1999
Vanishing Point	16	0
15m to the L is an easy-angled arete. Up this, then directly up to walk off, or unprotected finish up top slab (16). John Veronese & Alan Hill 2000
Crack Addict	18	0
The S-shaped crack with two bushes low down, and R of prominent yellow lichen. Alan Hill & Paul Bingham 1999
Chasing The Dragon	18	1.02
Climb Crack Addict to the yellow lichen, then L along crack to the final fist crack Alan Hill & Matthew Bennett 1999
The Celtic Trail	16	0
Climb the corner system 5m to the L, best reached by the broad rib on the L. Frazer Munro, Damian Cotton & Alan Hill 2000
Little Red Book	21	1.02
To the L is a face with a L-R curving crack high up. Climb to the curve, move R (crux) to foot of vertical crack and follow. The slabby section is protected by brass wires; don’t miss the small wire placement above the curve. Richard Kimberley and Alan Hill
Black Flies	22	1.02
Just L again is a curved crack behind a bush. Climb the crack with a move L onto the face, to ledge. Follow continuation of crack , crux move at top. Frazer Munro, Damion Cotton & Alan Hill 2000
Luna Rossa	18	0
Start at the foot of Black Flies, and climb LW up slab to stance on the arete below large bulge. Move up and R to ledge, then LW up poorly protected slab to finish through bulge R of shrub. Alan Hill & John Veronese 2000
Black Magic	20	1.02
3m L is an undercut corner, leading to a small triangular OH at 3m. Climb corner to a metre below OH, then commit LW for 3m along ledge to gain wide crack. Follow this to grassy ledge, move LW’s under triangular OH, and up to bulge by bush.Mantleshelf up and R onto prow above triangular OH, and the top. Alan Hill & John Veronese 2000
Beyond The Pale	21	1.02
To the L is a bush lawyer corner. A few metres L again is an OH with a crack trending up and R. Gain and follow crack (crux), traverse L to the rib.Continue up past ledge, through roof crack and hand crack to skyline notch. Alan Hill & Richard Kimberley 2001
The Wok Woute	20	1.02
The next route starts around the low angled rib to the L. Gain the slab using tree, and continue up to ledge. At the next bulge traverse out L using the R to L rising crack, and step across to gully. Move and R under OH to short overhanging crack. Up this & easier to the top. Alan Hill & John Veronese 2000
Fish Tales	16	0
Just L is a corner. Climb the LH side, through the pod, and up to exit LW. Frazer Munro, Alan Hill & Damian Cotton 2000
Fretwork	16	0
10m L again is a face with concave lower section. Start below this, by stacked flakes. Climb up and R to the arete. Continue up crack system to OH. Move L past two stacked blocks to the top. Alan Hill & Dale Miller 1999
Old Billy Boy	24	1.02
Crack up orange wall just to the L. Richard Kimberley 2001
My Dog Has Fleas	21	2.01
Start as for Fretwork, but continue straight up to triangular hole and crack, moving L below prow. Finish up overhanging hand crack. Alan Hill, Frazer Munro & Damian Cotton 2000
Welfare Mothers	19	0
Start 6m L by undercut. Boulder over bulge to crack, continue RW up slab to finish up corner crack. Damian Cotton, Alan Hill & Frazer Munro 2000
Make Better Lovers	18	1.02
Start at LH end of undercut, by pointed block. Onto the edge of the slab, over rib to L of bush (clip!), then commit up the wall past white lichen patch, with good wires. Damian Cotton, Alan Hill & Frazer Munro 2000
Pleasure Cruise	18	0
Start 3m L, under trees. Up V groove, L at bulge, then step up and R to the arete & the top. Alan Hill, Frazer Munro & Damian Cotton 2000
The Flenser	20	0
To the L is an OH at 7m. Just L of this is a broad slabby rib. Climb the arete at the RH side of the rib, then move R past shrub to the base of the large OH with stacked blocks. Pull through these (not loose) then through the corner and crack to skyline notch. Alan Hill and Richard Kimberley 2001
Fushia Legend	18	0
Just to the L is a corner and bulge, with a bush above. Climb the corner and crack, then the committing bulge R of the bush. Alan Hill, Frazer Munro & Damian Cotton 2000
The Curate’s Egg	19	0
15m L is a corner capped by a huge OH. Start down and R of the OH, and follow the jam crack leading up and L onto the RH side of the corner. Up the jagged crack. Alan Hill, Damian Cotton & Frazer Munro 2000
Crack In The Sky	17	1.02
Up corner past tree, L under roof to finish up crack on R. Matthew Bennett & Alan Hill 1999
The Exultant Dwarf	20	2.01
10m L is an obvious roof with crack. Start down and L of roof. Climb large detatched ground level flake, move R into V groove and climb until level with roof. Step R under roof and up. Custom built for the shorter climber. Alternative: start directly below roof , up on edges, then move L into groove. Alan Hill & Frazer Munro 2000
Cold Shoulder	22	0
Into the V groove groove as for The Exultant Dwarf, continue on to finish up the deceptive corner. Dale Miller & Alan Hill 1999
Cold Feet	16	0
Follow Cold Shoulder to the shrub, move L 3m and up short crack. Alan Hill & Frazer Munro 2000
The Piltdown Man	18	0
To the L, before the cliff petres out. Up a corner with thin crack, then vertical crack to the top. Alan Hill & Dale Miller 1999

(28 routes)