The Wok Face

(29 routes)

Descriptions from R to L. The approach from The Monument saddle takes almost an hour, and the path leads to the RH end. The rock is excellent, up to 20m high, and many of the routes worthwhile. There are descents are either end of the cliff.
At the very RH end of the cliff is a laid back corner, just L of the short fence.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
No Strain At The Strainer 11
0
wire representing trad
Climb the RH edge of the slab, awkward move at the top. Clip the fence for gear!
John Veronese & Alan Hill 2000
Starting Point 11
0
wire representing trad
Start at the foot of the corner. Climb up and gain the wide crack on the L.
John Veronese & Alan Hill 2000
Y Fronts 13
0
wire representing trad
On a separate piece of rock is a groove below an earthquake breakout. Climb the groove to the fresh rock step right slightly to exit. An alternative finish goes left.
Paul Bingham & Alan Hill 1999
Vanishing Point 16
0
wire representing trad
15m to the L is an easy-angled arete. Up this, then directly up to walk off, or unprotected finish up top slab (16).
John Veronese & Alan Hill 2000
Crack Addict 18
0
wire representing trad
The slightly warped crack with a bush low down, and right of prominent yellow lichen. A left finish was lost when the top block fell off in the 2011 earthquakes.
Alan Hill & Paul Bingham 1999
The Celtic Trail 16
0
wire representing trad
Climb the corner system 5m to the L, best reached by the broad rib on the L.
Frazer Munro, Damian Cotton & Alan Hill 2000
Little Red Book 21
1.02
wire representing trad
To the L is a face with a L-R curving crack high up. Climb to the curve, move R (crux) to foot of vertical crack and follow. The slabby section is protected by brass wires; don’t miss the small wire placement above the curve.
Richard Kimberley and Alan Hill
Black Flies 22
1.02
wire representing trad
Just L again is a curved crack behind a bush. Climb the crack with a move L onto the face, to ledge. Follow continuation of crack , crux move at top.
Frazer Munro, Damion Cotton & Alan Hill 2000
Luna Rossa 18
0
wire representing trad
Start at the foot of Black Flies, and climb LW up slab to stance on the arete below large bulge. Move up and R to ledge, then LW up poorly protected slab to finish through bulge R of shrub.
Alan Hill & John Veronese 2000
Black Magic 20
1.02
wire representing trad
3m L is an undercut corner, leading to a small triangular OH at 3m. Climb corner to a metre below OH, then commit LW for 3m along ledge to gain wide crack. Follow this to grassy ledge, move LW’s under triangular OH, and up to bulge by bush.Mantleshelf up and R onto prow above triangular OH, and the top.
Alan Hill & John Veronese 2000
Stir Fries 17
1.02
wire representing trad
A corner with a large patch of bush lawyer at the base. Navigate the bush lawyer, then up the corner and left around a triangular roof. Follow the crack curving left, through an overhang, and exit up the right-leaning crack.
Joe Arts, 2019.
Beyond The Pale 21
1.02
wire representing trad
To the L is a bush lawyer corner. A few metres L again is an OH with a crack trending up and R. Gain and follow crack (crux), traverse L to the rib.Continue up past ledge, through roof crack and hand crack to skyline notch.
Alan Hill & Richard Kimberley 2001
The Wok Woute 20
1.02
wire representing trad
The next route starts around the low angled rib to the L. Gain the slab using tree, and continue up to ledge. At the next bulge traverse out L using the R to L rising crack, and step across to gully. Move and R under OH to short overhanging crack. Up this & easier to the top.
Alan Hill & John Veronese 2000
Fish Tales 17
0
wire representing trad
Just L is a corner. Climb the LH side, through the pod, and up to exit LW.
Frazer Munro, Alan Hill & Damian Cotton 2000
Fretwork 17
0
wire representing trad
Behind the vegetation. Climb up and right to the arete. Continue up crack system past a fern to overhang. Awkward moves left past two jammed blocks to the top.
Alan Hill & Dale Miller 1999
Old Billy Boy 24
1.02
wire representing trad
Crack up orange wall just to the L.
Richard Kimberley 2001
My Dog Has Fleas 21
2.01
wire representing trad
Start two metres left of OBB to triangular hole and thin cracks, moving left below prow. Finish up overhanging hand crack.
Alan Hill, Frazer Munro & Damian Cotton 2000
Welfare Mothers 19
0
wire representing trad
Start 6m L by undercut. Boulder over bulge to crack, continue RW up slab to finish up corner crack.
Damian Cotton, Alan Hill & Frazer Munro 2000
Make Better Lovers 18
1.02
wire representing trad
Start at LH end of undercut, by pointed block. Onto the edge of the slab, over rib to L of bush (clip!), then commit up the wall past white lichen patch, with good wires.
Damian Cotton, Alan Hill & Frazer Munro 2000
Pleasure Cruise 18
0
wire representing trad
Start 3m L, under trees. Up V groove, L at bulge, then step up and R to the arete & the top.
Alan Hill, Frazer Munro & Damian Cotton 2000
The Flenser 20
0
To the L is an OH at 7m. Just L of this is a broad slabby rib. Climb the arete at the RH side of the rib, then move R past shrub to the base of the large OH with stacked blocks. Pull through these (not loose) then through the corner and crack to skyline notch.
Alan Hill and Richard Kimberley 2001
Fushia Legend 18
0
wire representing trad
Just to the L is a corner and bulge, with a bush above. Climb the corner and crack, then the committing bulge R of the bush.
Alan Hill, Frazer Munro & Damian Cotton 2000
Supernatural 18
0
Start behind trees in a deeply recessed corner with vegetation, including a broadleaf tree ten metres up. Move past the triangular overhang to the wall and slab on the right, and across the slab to the right side and up.
Lindsay Main, 2019.
The Curate’s Egg 19
0
15m L is a corner capped by a huge OH. Start down and R of the OH, and follow the jam crack leading up and L onto the RH side of the corner. Up the jagged crack.
Alan Hill, Damian Cotton & Frazer Munro 2000
Crack In The Sky 17
1.02
wire representing trad
Up dirty brown corner past tree (useful runner), left under diamond roof to finish up crack on right. Excellent rock but would be improved by cleaning the crack.
Matthew Bennett, 1999
The Exultant Dwarf 20
2.01
10m L is an obvious roof with crack. Start down and L of roof. Climb large detatched ground level flake, move R into V groove and climb until level with roof. Step R under roof and up. Custom built for the shorter climber. Alternative: start directly below roof , up on edges, then move L into groove.
Alan Hill & Frazer Munro 2000
Cold Shoulder 22
0
wire representing trad
Into the V groove groove as for The Exultant Dwarf, continue on to finish up the deceptive corner.
Dale Miller & Alan Hill 1999
Cold Feet 16
0
wire representing trad
Follow Cold Shoulder to the shrub, move L 3m and up short crack.
Alan Hill & Frazer Munro 2000
The Piltdown Man 18
0
wire representing trad
To the L, before the cliff petres out. Up a corner with thin crack, then vertical crack to the top.
Alan Hill & Dale Miller 1999
UUID: 
91bdc8fd-84c8-4a71-b3f9-4bcbea1f7254