This cliff has some excellent rock, and an imposing main face. It is best reached from by taking the lower bench track which runs just under the cliff.
Orientation On the LH side of the cliff is the large V groove of Baptism. The first routes are on the wall to the L.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Alert | Operations |
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Burning Christians, 15 | 15 | ||||||
The slab and bulge between the arete and the S crack. |
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The Tooting Popular Front, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Start 2m L of the foot of the V groove, and climb the slightly LW trending crack and small bulge. |
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Power To The People, 19 | 19 | ||||||
Start as for TPF, but continue directly up onto slab. Move R and up Baptism for 2m, then back L 2m onto small scoop below crack, then directly up crack. |
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Baptism, 11 | 11 | ||||||
The large V corner to the R. |
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A Hard Day’s Rut, 23 | 23 | ||||||
The route is around to the R, below the main face. Through the V break below the high roof with twin cracks. The start is the crux, 22 technical but not well protected. Continue up groove (wires), step L to good gear in crack below LH part of roof, finish by climbing the roof’s RH crack (21). |
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Dripping Fat, 22 | 22 | ||||||
The OH and jam crack near the RH end of the overhanging section at the cliff base. Climbs the widest stepped part of the OH. |
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Light And Tasty, 20 | 20 | ||||||
Start 4m R. Climb the corner to top of pedestal. Step R and up short corner with crack to gain ledge. Move L around arete and small roof to gain corner crack and follow. |
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One Man’s Meat, 21 | 21 | ||||||
Start 4m R. Climb the corner to top of pedestal. Step R and up short corner with crack to gain ledge. Move L around arete and small roof to gain corner crack and follow. |
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Martyr, 16 | 16 | ||||||
Start on platform as for OMM. Climb the V groove on the R. Swing up and L into exit corner, watch for loose blocks on the L. |
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Red Herring, 17 | 17 | ||||||
Start to the R just before the tree. Climb converging cracks to flared groove, and up to ledge. Finish up LH side of top wall. |
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Bloater, 17 | 17 | ||||||
3m R. Climb into low alcove above OH, move up and R to prow, then wall above. |
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Long Time No Sea, 15 | 15 | ||||||
Just to the R is a RW trending flared groove. Has some good moves. |