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Martyr Cliff

Type
Part of

This cliff has some excellent rock, and an imposing main face. It is best reached from by taking the lower bench track which runs just under the cliff.
Orientation On the LH side of the cliff is the large V groove of Baptism. The first routes are on the wall to the L.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Burning Christians, 15 15
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

The slab and bulge between the arete and the S crack.


 The Tooting Popular Front, 17 17
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

Start 2m L of the foot of the V groove, and climb the slightly LW trending crack and small bulge.


 Power To The People, 19 19
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • Trad

Start as for TPF, but continue directly up onto slab. Move R and up Baptism for 2m, then back L 2m onto small scoop below crack, then directly up crack.


 Baptism, 11 11
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • Trad

The large V corner to the R.


 A Hard Day’s Rut, 23 23
2.01

  • P1
  • 23
  • Trad

The route is around to the R, below the main face. Through the V break below the high roof with twin cracks. The start is the crux, 22 technical but not well protected. Continue up groove (wires), step L to good gear in crack below LH part of roof, finish by climbing the roof’s RH crack (21).


 Dripping Fat, 22 22
2.01

  • P1
  • 22
  • Trad

The OH and jam crack near the RH end of the overhanging section at the cliff base. Climbs the widest stepped part of the OH.


 Light And Tasty, 20 20
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • Trad

Start 4m R. Climb the corner to top of pedestal. Step R and up short corner with crack to gain ledge. Move L around arete and small roof to gain corner crack and follow.


 One Man’s Meat, 21 21
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • Trad

Start 4m R. Climb the corner to top of pedestal. Step R and up short corner with crack to gain ledge. Move L around arete and small roof to gain corner crack and follow.


 Martyr, 16 16
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • Trad

Start on platform as for OMM. Climb the V groove on the R. Swing up and L into exit corner, watch for loose blocks on the L.


 Red Herring, 17 17
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

Start to the R just before the tree. Climb converging cracks to flared groove, and up to ledge. Finish up LH side of top wall.


 Bloater, 17 17
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Trad

3m R. Climb into low alcove above OH, move up and R to prow, then wall above.


 Long Time No Sea, 15 15
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • Trad

Just to the R is a RW trending flared groove. Has some good moves.


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