Chopsticks Cliff- Righthand Section

(15 routes)

Is directly below Horizons Cliff, and on the same level as the main cliff. Routes start from the very LH end, next to the fence. Routes described L to R. The first two routes start just uphill of the fenceline. The RH section is most easily accessed from the bottom righthand end of the cliff.
The next routes are around the arete some 15m to the R, and are best approached from the R.

Type: 
Wall
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Long Johns 20
0
wire representing trad
Up the rightangled corner with kinked crack low down and tree below arete at 2/3rds height. Up to tree and R into corner and roof crack.
Pieces of Eight 20
0
wire representing trad
As for LJ to the tree, then up and L to leaning hand crack. Up this, move R to finish up awkward corner.
Alan Hill & Matthew Bennett 1999
Finger Licking Good 18
0
wire representing trad
Start 5m to the R, on buttress edge. Into low alcove, L and up bulge with crack (crux). Past shrub and trend RW up corner with capping blocks.
Hamish Reid, Alan Hill & Phil Green 1999
Cornflake 16
0
wire representing trad
Start 15m to the R, around the toe of the buttress, next to tree. Up groove with flake, step R onto ledge, then up & L to finish up vegetated groove.
Paul Bingham & Alan Hill 2000
Gritstone Crack 20
2.01
wire representing trad
Best approached from the R.Up and to the R are two obvious cracks just R of vegetated slabs and groove, and L of arete. Gain the RH crack directly up flake or from niche to the L and up handcrack to the top. Almost the real thing.
Alan Hill, Hamish Reid & Phil Green 1999
Hatchet Crack 25
2.01
wire representing trad
To the R is a face with obvious widening crack.. Climb the crack and final bulge.
Richard Kimberley & Alan Hill 2002
Paper Tiger 16
2.01
wire representing trad
Right again past a vegetated corner is a buttress with two offwidth cracks Start to the R below the LH offwidth where there is a tree at 4m. Climb past the tree and up groove a few meteres. Move out L below OH with horizontal crack, then follow flake for 3m. Move out R onto rounded nose (good #5 wire), then up onto ledge and the short wall with thin crack. Finish up rounded arete (crux). Double ropes useful. Excellent climbing after the initial munge.
Alan Hill and Richard Kimberley 2001
Chopsticks 13
0
wire representing trad
Start as for Te Tahi, and continue up the offwidth.
Henry Mares 1977
Consolation Crack 18
1.02
wire representing trad
6m to the R is a second offwidth above a corner crack. A wide crack trends RW from the foot of the offwidth. Climb to the offwidth, then RWs along crack to join corner. Finish up this as for Chindit.
Richard Kimberley & Alan Hill 2002
Chindit 20
0
wire representing trad
A few metres R again is a corner with bushes. Climb the corner and bulge to the top.
Alan Hill & Richard Kimberley 2002
Sward In The Stone 15
0
wire representing trad
Just to the R is a vegetated groove, then a small buttress. The next route climbs the LH side of buttress. Flake and twin crack, then laidback corner L of OH.
Alan Hill & Mike Coles 2002
No More Gaps 13
0
wire representing trad
The vegetated corner 3m R, exiting R over bulge.
Alan Hill, John Shrewsbury & Peter Gresham 2002
First Route 14
0
wire representing trad
4m R is a short coner capped by OH. Finish RWs.
Peter Gresham & Alan Hill 2002
Short Sharp Shock 19
0
To the R is a fence and large block. The next route starts below this. Climb the OHing corner crack past fuchia, move R and over roof. Short but good moves.
Alan Hill and Peter Gresham 2002
Unamed
0
From the top of the block scramble down and R to OHing scoop and belay. Traverse R, then up groove.
Peter Gresham & John Shrewsbury 2002