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Chopsticks Cliff- Right-hand Section

Type
Altitude
600m
Part of

Is a continuation of the Left-hand Section, with a more southerly aspect, so it has better shelter from the easterly and more shade, but of course dries slowly. This cliff was badly damaged in the earthquakes. Two routes are completely gone, and several others are badly affected.
The easiest approach is by traversing around from the cliffs to the south, following a rough track - initially the Wok Face, and then the Soupbowl (better climbing is found on the Wok Face, the first cliff passed). Alternatively, if you can find the benched track you can follow that and then strike up the hill to the crag, or even take a direct line after crossing the fence.
Routes are described left to right, though the easier approach is from the right. The left part of this cliff has scrub with a rough track through, though there is a better track connecting further around to the Left-hand Section of cliff.
Note that some routes have probably not had second ascents, nor been climbed since the earthquakes. Most routes would benefit from better cleaning.
Although not a great crag, this is notable for having probably the hardest trad route on Banks Peninsula.

Walktime
One hour plus
Aspect
South West
Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
Long Johns 20
0
Pieces of Eight 20
0
Finger Licking Good 18
0
Gritstone Crack 20
2.01
Cornflake 16
0
Hatchet Crack 25
3
Chopsticks 14 25m
0
Paper Tiger 17 25m
2.01
Compensation Crack 17 25m
0
Consolation Crack 18
1.02
Chindit 20 20m
0
Sward In The Stone 15 15m
0
No More Gaps 13 12m
0
First Route 14
0
Short Sharp Shock 19 0m
0
Unamed 0m
0
Comments
Attribution
Original descriptions are by Alan Hill, edited and updated by Lindsay Main.
UUID
 
d7255e40-cfe5-4c44-9f76-39251d644dba