Chopsticks Cliff- Lefthand Section

Type

Altitude

640m

Part of

Is directly below Horizon Cliff, and on the same level as the main cliff. Routes start from the very left end, next to the collapsed fence. Routes described L to R. The first two routes start just uphill of the fenceline. The left section is most easily approached by following the track underneath The Wok Face, heading up before The Soup Bowl, and traversing across the top of Chopsticks. There is a good track through the bush below the crag. Descents involve an easy walk down the grassy slopes north of the crag.

Walktime

1 hr

Aspect

North West

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Derision, 14	14	12m	0
P1 14 12m Trad The short corner with jammed blocks and bush. Continue up and R to the top.
	Fu Manchu, 15	15	15m	0
P1 15 15m Trad Start just to the R and climb groove with yellow lichen, finishing as for last route.
BC	BCBlack Crack, 16	16	15m	1.02
P1 16 15m Trad Steeper than it looks. Start a few metres right of the collapsed fence. Up the black right-angled corner with crack, finishing up crack on the right.
	Rock Around The Wok, 20	20	20m	0
The next routes are on the face to the R which gives excellent climbing. There is a large free standing pillar below the first two routes. P1 20 20m Trad Start on top of the pillar. Move up to bush, then L to stance on the arete. Climb back above the bush, then move up and L into a shallow corner with good edge and follow to the top. Uses a mix of gear, some of which is not ideal.
	Anchors, Who Needs Them!, 22	22		2.01
P1 22 Trad Same start. Move up and R along thin diagonal crack, then up past protuding flake. From top of flake move R into layback crack with fuschia and hebe, and up to ledge with block. Stand on block, move up then LW along thin crack (crux) to finish up knobby face.
TF	TFTwo Fish Fifty Chip, 22	22		2.01
P1 22 Trad Start to the R, and some 4m L of the obvious orange corner. A short awkward wall leads to a wide slot with small chockstone. Gain the slot, then at the bulge make a couple of moves L to gain and follow the obvious crack system.
LM	LMThe Long March, 23	23		3
P1 23 Trad is worth the effort. Climb the orange corner with some wild layback moves off the block. At the OH move L and up to fushcia, and groove to the top. Good rock, good pro, good moves.
HN	HNHigh Noon, 19	19	28m	2.01
P1 19 28m Trad The obvious central corner of the crag, approached from the right. Overhanging start at a damp area leads to a steep wide crack (crux), opening to an off-width at the top of the block. Above the ledge climb the steep brown corner to easier terrain, exiting slightly right. Some big cams (100 mm) required. The upper corner itself can also be approached across the vegetated shelves on the left, which makes it 17.
TC	TCTrundler’s Corner, 17	17	22m	1.02
P1 17 22m Trad The obvious corner with a hebe and a small tree. Steep technical climbing to the ledge, followed by jamming and bridging through the roof on the right.
SC	SCSunset Crack, 19	19	25m	0
P1 19 25m Trad On the right wall, starting off the flake to the irregular crack. Swing over to the main crack (crux), then up the crack to the big ledge. Step right and climb the corner, initially up a thin crack on the right and stepping across, followed by a steep exit over the top blocks.

Comments

UUID

1ed388aa-7c69-4c5e-a6d9-21610eaf04a5