Chopsticks Cliff- Lefthand Section

(10 routes)

Is directly below Horizon Cliff, and on the same level as the main cliff. Routes start from the very left end, next to the collapsed fence. Routes described L to R. The first two routes start just uphill of the fenceline. The left section is most easily approached by following the track underneath The Wok Face, heading up before The Soup Bowl, and traversing across the top of Chopsticks. There is a good track through the bush below the crag. Descents involve an easy walk down the grassy slopes north of the crag.

Altitude: 
640m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North West
Walk time: 
1 hr
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Derision 14 12m
0
wire representing trad
The short corner with jammed blocks and bush. Continue up and R to the top.
Alan Hill, 2002
Fu Manchu 15 15m
0
wire representing trad
Start just to the R and climb groove with yellow lichen, finishing as for last route.
Alan Hill, 2002
BC Black Crack 16 15m
1.02
wire representing trad
Steeper than it looks. Start a few metres right of the collapsed fence. Up the black right-angled corner with crack, finishing up crack on the right.
Phil Green, 1999
Rock Around The Wok 20 20m
0
wire representing trad
The next routes are on the face to the R which gives excellent climbing. There is a large free standing pillar below the first two routes.
Richard Kimberley, 2002
Anchors, Who Needs Them! 22
2.01
wire representing trad
Same start. Move up and R along thin diagonal crack, then up past protuding flake. From top of flake move R into layback crack with fuschia and hebe, and up to ledge with block. Stand on block, move up then LW along thin crack (crux) to finish up knobby face.
Richard Kimberley & Alan Hill 2002
TF Two Fish Fifty Chip 22
2.01
wire representing trad
Start to the R, and some 4m L of the obvious orange corner. A short awkward wall leads to a wide slot with small chockstone. Gain the slot, then at the bulge make a couple of moves L to gain and follow the obvious crack system.
Richard Kimberley & Alan Hill 2001
LM The Long March 23
3
wire representing trad
is worth the effort. Climb the orange corner with some wild layback moves off the block. At the OH move L and up to fushcia, and groove to the top. Good rock, good pro, good moves.
Alan Hill & Richard Kimberley 2001
HN High Noon 19 28m
2.01
wire representing trad
The obvious central corner of the crag, approached from the right. Overhanging start at a damp area leads to a steep wide crack (crux), opening to an off-width at the top of the block. Above the ledge climb the steep brown corner to easier terrain, exiting slightly right. Some big cams (100 mm) required. The upper corner itself can also be approached across the vegetated shelves on the left, which makes it 17.
Lindsay Main, 2014
TC Trundler’s Corner 17 22m
1.02
wire representing trad
The obvious corner with a hebe and a small tree. Steep technical climbing to the ledge, followed by jamming and bridging through the roof on the right.
Alan Hill, 2002
SC Sunset Crack 19 25m
0
wire representing trad
On the right wall, starting off the flake to the irregular crack. Swing over to the main crack (crux), then up the crack to the big ledge. Step right and climb the corner, initially up a thin crack on the right and stepping across, followed by a steep exit over the top blocks.
Lindsay Main, 2014