Ribtickler Cliff

Type

Sector

Altitude

100m

Part of

Aspect

East

Ribtickler Cliff is directly uphill from the first willow on the lakeside. Rock is generally very good, 8-12m high, and has some excellent jam cracks. Descriptions from R to L.

Walktime

15min

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
	Scuttler’s Corner, 19	19		0
P1 19 Trad The corner just R of handcrack, with ledge at 2/3rds height.
	Project		0m	0
P1 Trad The R-leaning crack 2m to the L. NOT YET climbed cleanly
	Pete’s Route, 18	18		0
P1 18 Trad 2m L again is a seam with an overhanging start. Continue through higher bulge to horizontal break, then up short wall.
	Eric’s Route, 18	18	10m	0
P1 18 10m Trad The corner to the L with bush. The start is okay but the middle is committing with minimal gear.
	Fat Chance, 18	18		0
P1 18 Trad The blocks have moved during the earthquakes, and the rock in the crack is very shattered, with the obvious rib being semi-detached. Climb the crack/groove, and round RH side of the roof. Exit L at top.
	Bread And Jam, 21	21		0
P1 21 Trad Same start. The tan pillar, and roof via crack on L.
	One For The Road, 18	18		0
P1 18 Trad Start 3m L. Small corner to bulge, RW up short crack, committing L under roof, finish up corner.
	Blind Bend, 17	17		0
P1 17 Trad This route has fallen down.
	Damian’s Route, 18	18		1.02
P1 18 Trad Same start, up the corner, followed by bulging crack and flared groove above.
	Roadside Distraction, 16	16		0
P1 16 Trad Climb past a small pruned bush and up move slightly right to gain the corner-crack. Normal exit is the easy vegetated corner to the right.
	Road Rage, 17	17		0
P1 17 Trad Three metres left, at the left end of the roof. Easiest start is on the wall just left of the rib. (The right-facing corner start has also been climbed). Pull up on good holds but no pro to a stance at the roof, and place wires in the crack to the right. Then continue up the left-facing corner to a small bush, and move right to the exit crack with good protection.
	Chicane, 13	13		0
P1 13 Trad Just L of the scoria slab, vegetated groove (avoidable) leading through squarecut slot.
	Rush Hour Traffic, 17	17		0
P1 17 Trad The obvious thin crack through a bulge. Start up the leaning crack and stand on flake; then climb the crack from the right with good holds.
	Adverse Camber, 21	21		0
P1 21 Trad Climb RHT to the flake, move L and over cracked bulge. Finish up kinked crack R of arete.
	The Ice Plant Cometh, 16	16		0
P1 16 Trad To the L is a vegetated corner
	The Sward In The Stone, 20	20		0
P1 20 Trad Gain grassy ledge and climb crack in centre of wall.
	The Corner, 16	16		0
P1 16 Trad Corner cracks at LH end of grassy ledge. Positive holds with good protection.
	The Crack, 19	19		2.01
P1 19 Trad The obvious bulging crack to the left of the overhang.
	The Scoop, 22	22		0
P1 22 Trad 2m L, awkwardly into the pod, exit R.
	Standing Room Only, 19	19		1.02
P1 19 Trad The overhanging crack to the L, finishing up short wall near top of crack.
	Run And Jump, 17	17		0
P1 17 Trad The obvious corner with a crack a metre to its right. Scramble up past the wild parsley to the ledge, and bridge to good holds in the crack; then up. Short, but quite intense.
	Naroa, 21	21		1.02
P1 21 Trad Continuing for about 200m on the same level leads to the higher of two corners which are visible on the left ridgeline from the roadside. Around to the L is a steep alcove above a cave. R of the arete is thin overhanging crack which branches LW higher up. 2m R again is a thin crack/groove finishing up wide slot between large blocks.
	Hand Over Fist, 19	19		0
P1 19 Trad The next routes are on a steep butress on the same level as Ribtickler, and some 40 metres R of Scuttler’s Corner. Routes L to R. The steep Rwards jamcrack above an undercut scoop. Either finish up the final short crack, or the bulge on good holds 1m L.
	Clean Sweep		0m	0
P1 Trad The chimney slot just R.
	Long Dusty, 14	14		0
P1 14 Trad The crack and laid back corner to the R.

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Comments

Attribution

Allan Hill

UUID

060ea211-9a19-4ccb-8d4f-06b62716a2e1