Ribtickler Cliff is directly uphill from the first willow on the lakeside. Rock is generally very good, 8-12m high, and has some excellent jam cracks. Descriptions from R to L.
Routes
Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Pro | Quality | Operations |
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Scuttler’s Corner, 19 | 19 | |||||
The corner just R of handcrack, with ledge at 2/3rds height. |
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Project | ||||||
The R-leaning crack 2m to the L. NOT YET climbed cleanly |
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Pete’s Route, 18 | 18 | |||||
2m L again is a seam with an overhanging start. Continue through higher bulge to horizontal break, then up short wall. |
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Eric’s Route, 18 | 18 | 10m | ||||
The corner to the L with bush. The start is okay but the middle is committing with minimal gear. |
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Fat Chance, 18 | 18 | |||||
The blocks have moved during the earthquakes, and the rock in the crack is very shattered, with the obvious rib being semi-detached. Climb the crack/groove, and round RH side of the roof. Exit L at top. |
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Bread And Jam, 21 | 21 | |||||
Same start. The tan pillar, and roof via crack on L. |
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One For The Road, 18 | 18 | |||||
Start 3m L. Small corner to bulge, RW up short crack, committing L under roof, finish up corner. |
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Blind Bend, 17 | 17 | |||||
This route has fallen down. |
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Damian’s Route, 18 | 18 | |||||
Same start, up the corner, followed by bulging crack and flared groove above. |
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Roadside Distraction, 16 | 16 | |||||
Climb past a small pruned bush and up move slightly right to gain the corner-crack. Normal exit is the easy vegetated corner to the right. |
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Road Rage, 17 | 17 | |||||
Three metres left, at the left end of the roof. Easiest start is on the wall just left of the rib. (The right-facing corner start has also been climbed). Pull up on good holds but no pro to a stance at the roof, and place wires in the crack to the right. Then continue up the left-facing corner to a small bush, and move right to the exit crack with good protection. |
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Chicane, 13 | 13 | |||||
Just L of the scoria slab, vegetated groove (avoidable) leading through squarecut slot. |
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Rush Hour Traffic, 17 | 17 | |||||
The obvious thin crack through a bulge. Start up the leaning crack and stand on flake; then climb the crack from the right with good holds. |
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Adverse Camber, 21 | 21 | |||||
Climb RHT to the flake, move L and over cracked bulge. Finish up kinked crack R of arete. |
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The Ice Plant Cometh, 16 | 16 | |||||
To the L is a vegetated corner |
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The Sward In The Stone, 20 | 20 | |||||
Gain grassy ledge and climb crack in centre of wall. |
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The Corner, 16 | 16 | |||||
Corner cracks at LH end of grassy ledge. Positive holds with good protection. |
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The Crack, 19 | 19 | |||||
The obvious bulging crack to the left of the overhang. |
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The Scoop, 22 | 22 | |||||
2m L, awkwardly into the pod, exit R. |
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Standing Room Only, 19 | 19 | |||||
The overhanging crack to the L, finishing up short wall near top of crack. |
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Run And Jump, 17 | 17 | |||||
The obvious corner with a crack a metre to its right. Scramble up past the wild parsley to the ledge, and bridge to good holds in the crack; then up. Short, but quite intense. |
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Naroa, 21 | 21 | |||||
Continuing for about 200m on the same level leads to the higher of two corners which are visible on the left ridgeline from the roadside. Around to the L is a steep alcove above a cave. R of the arete is thin overhanging crack which branches LW higher up. 2m R again is a thin crack/groove finishing up wide slot between large blocks. |
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Hand Over Fist, 19 | 19 | |||||
The next routes are on a steep butress on the same level as Ribtickler, and some 40 metres R of Scuttler’s Corner. Routes L to R. The steep Rwards jamcrack above an undercut scoop. Either finish up the final short crack, or the bulge on good holds 1m L. |
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Clean Sweep | ||||||
The chimney slot just R. |
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Long Dusty, 14 | 14 | |||||
The crack and laid back corner to the R. |