Bruno

Type: 
Rock
Reference: 
Bo
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11828mYes
 The thin crack to the right of Women's Weekly. Start under the roof (loose rock), then up the crack and step right to the ledge. Continue with well-spaced protection in the weakness straight up the wall. DBB at the top of the top of cliff.
Grade: 
18
Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
28m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
1
Ascent: 
Tim Wethey, 1975

Comments

Boulder up to a lovely crack. Then things get interesting. Sling the flake? I would, even though it looks like the luckiest of earthquake survivors! Why? Well a certain guidebook promises "spaced solid pro" after this, but this must be the Fantasy Factory haze entering the author's mind - either that or the quake closed up all the cracks. NO PRO until close to top out! (unless you count a big hex jammed into a pocket like a coathanger) . Quite a dangerous route... (easy climbing, say 16, during the runout though, if you like that kind of thing) - or perhaps the haze entered my mind and I went off-route: only one way to find out!