Kaik Wall

(15 routes)

An impressive wall, above Akaroa.

Type: 
Crag
Aspect: 
West
Walk time: 
20min
Access: 

Go up lighthouse Rd.
Drive uphill for about 3km.
Park by the road walk uphill to the crag. on the same hieght as Brasenose but further right.

Lat/Lon: 
-43.843534510000, 172.972500490000
NZMS260: 
n37 078071
Topo50: 
BY25 978 455
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
Jon’s Route 18
0
wire representing trad
At the LH end and up is a small face with a R-L trending elbow crack.Gain the crack at the elbow and follow. Climb the skyline block/face initially in the middle, then the L edge.
Jon Veronese & Alan Hill 2005
Standing Room Only 16
0
wire representing trad
A few metres R. Up the wide zig-zag crack , move R to avoid summit block and finish up a series of corners.
Alan Hill 2001
Hang The Lot 13
0
wire representing trad
Start to the R at the foot of the crag. Climb the wide corner crack to finish as for SRO
Alan Hill, Michael & Jon Veronese 2005
Hung Jury 17
0
wire representing trad
5m to the R. Up the blocky groove and short steep corner Move L at bushes, any way to top.
Alan Hill & Richard Kimberley March 2001
Punitive Damages 22
1.02
wire representing trad
Climbs the next corner some 5m to the R (NOT the big corner!) Start between these 2 corners and up a crack to the slab below large triangular OH at 10m. Move L and up corner past shrub. Move up and R along flake (crux).
Alan Hill March 2001
England’s Ashes 21
1.02
wire representing trad
Start as for NRFTW, but continue directlty up past a flake and ramp to a short steep crux up final corner.
Alan Hill, Michael & Jon Veronese 2005
No Rest For The Wicked 25
0
7bolts
Starts at the left side of the crag, below an obvious corner. Climb the initial wall (soft rock) and move up the slab above to the foot of the corner. Clip the second bolt and climb the steep wall above to a rest on the blunt arête out left. Awkward moves on small and sloping holds get you to another resting position. Move up again on good holds to the sixth bolt, the route rears up and the right facing corner is climbed direct to poor holds, an inelegant mantle gets you to the last bolt. Finish easily to the belay. Tony Burnell
Step Class 20
1.02
5bolts
Climb up to the first bolt on “No Rest For The Wicked”, traverse right to the arête and the second bolt. Clip the bolt and move round right to climb the bulge. Move up to the second roof, clip the bolt on the lip round right to climb the bulge, continue straight up a steep red groove step slightly right at the top. Up again to the final bolt on top of a pedestal before finishing easily up to a single bolt belay.
Tony Burnell
Fundamental Error 20
0
wire representing trad
20m R of SC. Climb through square notch to the L of the overhang. Traverse R-wards to the reverse C, wide crack then R-wards to the rib. Climb past the orange face finishing up a corner with a white spot on the L, on easier but less protected climbing.
Richard Kimberley
I am not a number 26
3
5bolts
The line of 5B to the R of the overhang.
Richard Kimberly
I'm OK You're OK 21 ,21
1.02
4bolts wire representing trad
Start just by a hanging garden 2m of the ground. Step R at the flax, follow groove and crack past bolt on L. Move R to belay below overhang R of the tree.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1210m1Yes
 Start just by a hanging garden 2m of the ground. Step R at the flax, follow groove and crack past bolt on L. Move R to belay below overhang R of the tree.
2210m3Yes
 Move up L-wards past 2B finishing up the corner.
Richard Kimberley
Essence De Wombat 21 ,24
2.01
6bolts wire representing trad
AS for IOYO. 1.Start just by a hanging garden 2m of the ground. Step R at the flax, follow groove and crack past bolt on L. Move R to belay below overhang R of the tree.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
1210m1Yes
 AS for IOYO. 1.Start just by a hanging garden 2m of the ground. Step R at the flax, follow groove and crack past bolt on L. Move R to belay below overhang R of the tree.
2240m5No
 Continue directly through small roof past 4B.
Richard Kimberley
Running on Empty 25
3
8bolts wire representing trad
Just right of the central crack line is a hanging garden and immediately to its right a weakness penetrates the initial roof. Pull up into the groove using a concretion which forms a hole in the rock (BR) move left under a bulge on poor holds to gain a line of grooves (BR). Climb the initial groove past a wire slot (BR at top). Continue up the crack line friends and wires before exiting onto ledges and easier climbing long run out to BR. Step right then back round left and climb straight up past the bolt, easier climbing to good friend placements below the steep wall and the crux of the wall. There are three bolts on the wall, start at the bottom left and get established in the groove, hard climbing diagonally across the face to the arete, pull up awkwardly and gain a standing position below the steep arete above (BR). Move first left then swing right to an exposed position on the arete, finish up this to easier climbing. Tony Burnell
Gasoline Alley 25
3
8bolts wire representing trad
Twin Ropes are pretty much essential. Just right of ‘Running on Empty’ start behind the flax bushes and just left of a black groove. Climb the steep initial wall (BR) to a hanging groove that backs off after a couple of moves, good wires at the base of the groove. Move up onto a slab (BR) and continue to where the wall steepens (BR). Move up the steep wall to the base of a short steep groove (BR). Hard moves get you into the groove, friend placements in crack at back, (BR) on right wall at top of groove. Move out right into an exposed position on the rib (BR). From a standing position on the rib move up on good holds, but handle with care, friend placement and spike runner. Move left to a bottomless short groove (BR) climb the groove and the rib / arete above past good friend placements and a final bolt runner before summiting out at the top of the crag. Tony Burnell
Class Action 24
3
10bolts wire representing trad
Climb the bolted groovr to the R of the ledge. Go L-wards past a small roof at the 5th bolt.. Carry on over the next overlap to good pro then through the 2nd overlapand flake face.
Richard Kimberley.
Attribution: 
Parts from Linsay Main & Tony Burnell

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