Toaroha Range traverse

Type: 
Alpine
Pitch(es): 
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
10mNo
 

The standard approach onto the northern end of the Toaroha Range begins up the Kokatahi Valley,
leaving the valley track at a sign in a cutty grass clearing, five minutes before Boo Boo Hut. The marked
route up to and beyond here is getting somewhat overgrown in places, but DOC is expecting to recut
it by 2012. A short way beyond the first tussock clearings, but below Pt 1085 metres, the marked route
jumps from one spur south to another spur. There are poles and tape through this section but the
route is still easy to miss, especially coming down. Pinnacle Bivouac (two person) is old and basic, but
weatherproof.
Head over Crinkle Top above the bivvy, then sidle off the ridge through basins east of Genoa Peak
to reach the range further south. There is a steeper rocky section before Mt Reeves, but travel is not
difficult ; nor is dropping off Mt Reeves to the south. There are campsites by tarns near the range in the
last 750 metres along to Zit Saddle. Continuing south, the ridge is dry. Sidle through a rocky landscape
with interesting basins to the east of Pt 1809 metres, then climb up to Mt Chamberlin.
With a little looking around from a saddle about 300 metres south of Mt Chamberlin, a gully and
terrain nearby offers a steep but feasible route down to Park Stream. If staying on the range, continue
past another Pt 1809 metres and continue over Mt Bannatyne towards Toaroha Saddle, being careful
to go right around and not get caught by the beautiful canyon in upper Bannatyne Creek. Great
campsites exist around Toaroha Saddle, or continue up to Toaroha Saddle Bivvy.

Quality: 
0
Gone: 
0
Length: 
0m
Bolts: 
0
Natural pro: 
0
UUID: 
4c981f6b-1f37-40f9-996f-a5eb7b2b4adb