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McClure Pk

Type
Mountain
Altitude
2486m
Part of
Main Divide

McClure Peak is at the junction of the Two Thumb Range and the Main Divide and stands out as a perfect snow pyramid when looking up the Havelock Valley from the vicinity of Black Mountain Hut.

Lat/lon
-43.43173,170.615873, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX17 070 885
Accessed from
Godley Glacier
Perth River
St Winifred Stream
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
8.57 8.57South Ridge, II,2+ II,2+ 0m
1.02

From Terra Nova Pass, climb the snow and rock south ridge past St Winifred Col (which is not a crossing point), avoiding large rock buttresses on the eastern side and regaining the ridge about 200m from the summit. More difficult than it looks. McClure is a great vantage point. The West Ridge is the easiest descent.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 2+
 West Ridge, II,2 II,2 0m
0

Climb directly from the head of the Godley to the Main Divide west of the summit, then choose a route up the broad west ridge to the summit.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
 North Ridge, 2- 2- 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2-

From Hidden Col climb the glacier north of McClure Peak. At its head, follow a steepening couloir almost directly to the summit, or move on to shattered rock either side of the couloir.

Comments
This place appears in
Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
CW Alps 2009 (Geoff Spearpoint, Yvonne Cook, CMC)
UUID
 
93108ec6-2ba2-432e-a544-a37602640761