Skip to main content

McClure Pk

Part of

McClure Peak is at the junction of the Two Thumb Range and the Main Divide and stands out as a perfect snow pyramid when looking up the Havelock Valley from the vicinity of Black Mountain Hut. McClure Peak was first climbed from Terra Nova Pass by Jack Lippe and Will Kennedy, February 1925.

POINT (170.615873 -43.43173)
BX17 070 885
Add Place Add Route


Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
SR SRSouth Ridge, 2- 2-

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2-

From Terra Nova Pass, follow the ridge to Saint Winifred Col. From here climb snow and rock, bypassing a large rock buttresses on the eastern side.

 West Face, 1+ 1+

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 1+

From the upper Godley Glacier head up a tributary glacier to the Main Divide west of the peak. The West Face is fairly broad with relatively easy rock and scree slopes. This tributary glacier is likely to be cut off by crevasses at times, especially later in the season. A variation on this route has been used, approaching from Stewart Pass along the Main Divide snows of Malthus and Dennistoun. A second variation of this route is to approach from Dummy Col up the shingle bed of Eric Stream from the Havelock Valley. From Dummy Col, continue to Hidden Col, then cross snowslopes to a rib at about 2120m giving access to the same West Face.

 North Ridge, 2- 2-

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2-

From Hidden Col climb the glacier north of McClure Peak. At its head, follow a steepening couloir almost directly to the summit, or move on to shattered rock either side of the couloir.

 From Terra Nova Pass

  • P1

From Terra Nova Pass climb the snow and rock south ridge, avoiding large rock buttresses on the eastern side, regaining the ridge about 200m from the summit. This is more difficult than it looks.


  • P1

Climb directly from the head of the Godley using a tributary glacier to access the Main Divide west of the summit.

Yvonne Cook and Geoff Spearpoint,
in association with the Canterbury Mountaineering Club
Alex Palman.