Natural pro requiredOn the Onslow Wall, left of Onslow Buttress. Climb scree to its highest point on the left of the face, then up the left side of a gully to reach belay bolts. Six sustained pitches on the central part of the face, with some bolts.
- P1
- 20
- 40m
- 6
- Trad
Move right to short corner, up this a few metres to 1st bolt on wall. Move onto face and climb seams passing another bolt. The seams angle slightly left and the route follows that line up the face. Passing a bolt in dark juggy rock, then another above a small ledge. From there the route goes straight up passing two more bolts, directly to belay bolts beneath 1st overhang. 6B, few extra runners can be used.
- P2
- 20
- 40m
- 5
- Trad
Straight up past 2 bolts to obvious feature on the overhang. Slightly left-wards line up past a bolt and up to the ‘Witches Hat’. Straight up face to bolt then step left and up to V shaped ledge. Up right to bolt, then straight up through overhang to belay bolts beneath overhang.
- P3
- 21
- 30m
- 1
- Trad
Move left up to bolt on face above overhang. Onto face and up to crack for runners, then move left and climb up to gain two seams heading up the face tending slightly right. Towards the top the left seam stops and the right seam becomes a crack. Belay bolts on ledge above this. Ample natural pro on face.
- P4
- 20
- 45m
- 3
- Trad
Step left around corner onto face. Follow obvious left- wards rising traverse past 2B. Then up face tending slightly L, about ten metres to a bolt above a small ledge. Continue up same line to belay bolts in V shaped stance.
- P5
- 19
- 45m
- 2
- Trad
Move left to bolt, then up seams to ledge. Directly up face past another bolt. Then tend slightly left- wards up face on juggy rock to belay bolts on major ledge.
- P6
- 14
- 30m
- Trad
Climb juggy wall to gain corner about ten metres up. Follow up corner and over bulges. The angle eases above bulges. Final belay bolt is in the corner when level with terrace on right.