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Golly Rodger

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 18 December 2024, by Richard Thomson.

Permission is required to cross private land. Log in for contact details.

Grade
20
Length
395m
0
Natural pro required
Quality
1.02
First ascent
Peter Dickson, Bill McLeod, 1992
Located on
Cloudy Pk
Topo ref
GR

This route on the Left Wall of Cloudy Pk ‘offers consistent climbing and has a worthwhile feel about it,’ said one of the first ascentionists. ‘We were scared pretty much the whole time,’ said the other. Nine pitches on very compact and sparsely protected rock. Belay/abseil bolts.
Access by scrambling up towards highest rock mound beneath centre of face. This is about 100 metres right of the big right-facing corner. Rather than climbing to top of the mound, move left about 40 m along ledges to bolt belay on nose of rock.
The first ascent climbed using all natural gear with the abseil bolts being added to the belay stances on the descent, which also helps to mark where the route goes.

  • P1
  • 16
  • 45m
  • Trad

Left of belay is a recess in the face. Starting in this, climb up good rock tending slightly left to ledge. Then straight up overhang and face to main ledge and belay bolts.

  • P2
  • 18
  • 45m

Tend left up face to ledge. Above is a steep wall with seams angling right. Follow seams to ledge and belay bolts.

  • P3
  • 16
  • 45m

Straight up overhang, then the face above tending slightly right to a ledge. Then straight up face to belay bolts on ledge. Belay may be a little to your left when gaining ledge. Good sustained pitch.

  • P4
  • 20
  • 45m

Step left and up weakness in the overhang. Then up and move right along seams to a small overlapping corner. Move around this corner and up tending right to ledge. Climb straight up face to next ledge, then tending left up face to belay bolts in recess.

  • P5
  • 17
  • 45m

Just left of belay and straight up steep juggy line of weakness to ledge. Then on up face (slightly right). Belay bolts on ledge.

  • P6
  • 17
  • 50m

Tend left up face to ledge. Above ledge head straight up towards small right-facing corner. Belay bolts just above. Sustained pitch.

  • P7
  • 14
  • 40m

Up and right to follow weakness through overhang. Then back left and straight up face to ledge and belay bolts.

  • P8
  • 15
  • 30m

Move left a bit to avoid overhang then up good juggy rock. Once established on face above keep a little left at 1st, moving right again when well up. Gain sloping ledge and bolts.

  • P9
  • 13
  • 50m

The rock above belay looks a bit odd. Move right a few metres along ledge, then up face tending back left. Regain the line then barrel straight up juggy rock to the belay bolts. Above this the angle lies back to scrambling. Be careful to avoid snagged ropes if abseiling this pitch.

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