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Consolation Crag

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 18 December 2024, by Richard Thomson.

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Type
Sector
Altitude
1500m
Part of
Cloudy Pk

One two-pitch route was climbed on the walk out when high winds prevented a climb on Cloudy Peak proper. Potential for more routes. Other crags in the lower valley have potential for similar routes, useful for when weather or time limitations prevent climbing the longer routes in the area, or as a half day option before walking out.

Can walk off top and around north side of crag to get back to the base.

Aspect
West
Lat/lon
-43.480702,170.778995, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX18 2038 8341
Approach

A ~60m high wall on the true left, high above the 'oasis' at the 1500m contour.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
CC CCConsolation Corner, 18 18 60m
0

A two-pitch line up the centre of the crag. First pitch is loose and poorly protected in places. Second pitch has good rock and good protection, great climbing.

  • P1
  • 17
  • 30m
  • Trad

Start below centre of crag, move up and right into a broad corner and follow the broad weakness up to a large ledge. Climb pillars out of the ledge to a large boulder then up right (crux) to large ledges in the centre of the cliff. Belay at a large boulder to the left of a prominent chimney/corner. This pitch has poor protection in the lower half, though the crux is decently protected.

  • P2
  • 18
  • 30m
  • Trad

Move right along a weakness from the prominent chimney/corner towards the face into a narrow and steep v-corner (good protection). Move up then left where it peters out into another steep v-corner. Move up this past a bulge to the top of the cliff. Good protection and good climbing.

Comments
UUID
 
765628a6-bc23-4a98-8e46-e83d50f7497f