Mt Glenmary

From Dasler Bivouac follow a lightly cut track leading into the valley south of the Dasler Pinnacles. Gain height up a broad scree gully, then ascend the north face on mainly solid red rock aiming for a flat shoulder at BY15 495n264. From here, gain the summit ridge and follow it south.

From 1 km north of Red Hut, climb through beech forest into the basin west of Glenmary. Gain height up an obvious gully through the bottom part of the face, surmount one steep pitch leading to easier ground above.

From 1 km north of Red Hut, climb through beech forest into the basin west of Glenmary and the foot of the ridge. Towers on the ridge are turned by sidling across both west and north faces. The first ascent party were benighted high on the ridge – likely not the last party to discover that the route is long and requires considerable time on the sometimes friable rock. A challenging climb.

From Red Hut, climb through the beech forest just north of the stream until the forest edge is reached at about 1400m. Follow a narrow, clear path through subalpine vegetation and climb between two hillocks to reach the tarn at 1500m, then continue upvalley. The 750m high face and central couloir, which is visible from Monument Hut, provides an interesting mixed rock and ice route in summer, and finishes on the east ridge 100m from the summit. The rock on the lower section of the zigzag is fractured and requires concentration.

From Red Hut, climb through the beech forest just north of the stream until the forest edge is reached at about 1400m. Follow a narrow, clear path through subalpine vegetation and climb between two hillocks to reach the tarn at 1500m, then continue upvalley to the col between Glenmary and Ben Ross. The long ridge is airy and narrow and appears to provide a rewarding climb. Descent can be via the standard north face route.