Warnocks Bluff

Climbed from the Otira Valley. Where the foot-bridge crosses the Otira River (about halfway up the valley) follow a vague track that crosses the vegetated moraine wall high on the true left. It then zigzags up the scree slide that leads to the base of the bluffs separating Warnocks Knob from Philistine’s East Ridge. Connecting ramps and gullies, find a path through the bluffs, giving access to the easier slopes above. In winter these bluffs are extremely dangerous when covered in loose snow or ice. An alternative route through the bluffs follows a stepped creek found further to the north, though this has similar winter problems. Above the bluffs continue following the ridge, staying true left of the east ridge buttress, then climbing snow slopes to join the saddle adjacent the Rolleston Glacier. The loose main ridge is easily climbed from here.