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Otira Face

Type

Routes on the 900-metre Otira Face to the Middle Peak of Mt Rolleston are for experienced parties only. More often than not the rock can be quite rotten in zones as determined by the obvious synclined strata!
Visibility plays a major role in a successful and safe climb of the Otira Face, and if poor could lead to major epics on the Middle Peak routes.
Routes on the Otira face of the High Peak are listed separately.

Image
Aspect
North
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
A AMiddle Direct, 2 2 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2

The arete on the left-hand side of the central gut is the most direct line to Middle Peak. It is a loose, long haul. It has claimed many lives in its short history of ascents. Route finding towards the top of this face tends to be quite messy; nearly everybody manages to concoct an original finish.


B BMiddle Rib, 2 2 0m
0

The rib is best reached via a slabby ramp from the lower Otira Slide. Join
the rotten spur that sweeps around to join the Middle Direct route just below
the summit of the Middle Peak.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2

Comments
Attribution
Colin Monteath, Hedgehog House
UUID
 
5721b987-877a-4ff6-91c4-bedee5dc965a