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Mueller Hut to Dobson River

First ascent
Thomas Brodrick, Louis Sladden, March 1889;
E W Green, Mr Smart (first crossing), 1905
Located on

From Mueller Hut
Head south and drop over the ridge down tussock and scree to the edge of the moraine wall and on to the moraine-covered glacier. A winter and spring option directly below the Metelille Glacier has also been used but it’s not as direct and not recommended without good snow cover. Once on the upper Mueller Glacier travel is relatively straightforward over moraine and ice up the centre until you are up against the north-east face of Scissors. Turn left and follow snow and scree benches to the easy-angled slopes near Barron Saddle. The actual saddle is the westernmost of two saddle. There is a precipitous drop into the Dobson from the eastern saddle. Barron Saddle Hut is on a shelf 400m to the north-east.
Descent to the Dobson
Head south-east form the saddle on easy slopes and descend a moderately steep rock gully to reach the stream draining the south-western slopes of Mt Darby and Mt Marie at about BY15 584 497. Sidle out on the true left on to a moraine ridge where where travel is easier into the upper valley.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 1+
  • Alpine (Commitment) II