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Lyttle Pk

Part of
POINT (169.98136015 -43.59053036)
BX15 563 692

There's a route up Architect Creek from just above the swing bridge which goes high through the bush on the true right. It's blazed with pink and orange ribbon and emerges onto the river flats just past the gorge.
Descent from the summit to Architect Creek is via the Northern slopes, staying close to the North Ridge. At 1900m, descend the easy snow gully down to the base of the West Face.

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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 The Architect, 16,4- 16,4- 500m

3 pitches of variable quality rock lead into moderate scrambling through the
middle section of the west face. As the face steepens again, trend
rightwards aiming for the large ledge overhanging the central gully. An
exposed but short step leads back onto the slabs, which are traversed to the
final pitch on the NE aspect. Good quality rock on upper sections, crux
grade 16.

  • P1
  • 16
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-
  • 500m
  • Trad

 From Bannister Rock, 3,III 3,III

The route of the first ascent of Lyttle Peak is unknown, but the easiest route appears to gain the steep south-eastern snow face at the bottom left, through a break in the line of bluffs below the face. To reach this point from the Lyttle-Darkwater confluence, ascend a tussock ridge past numerous large boulders, an then traverse north across the top of a prominent waterfall to gain a sloping shelf leading towards Lyttle Peak.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

 North Ridge

No recorded ascent from Architect Creek. From Whales Saddle there is a steep, unclimbed rock step on the ridge between 1600m and 1700m. The upper part of the ridge can be accessed at 1880m via a snow gully from the head of Architect Creek. The upper ridge was descended by Pete Harris and Steve Harris in April 2014.

c/- Rob Frost