This area is easily accessible from the Aoraki/Mount Cook village.
The peaks on the Sealy Range are especially popular and provide short, relatively easy climbs for the beginner or the climber seeking a gentle introduction to the region.
In contrast, peaks on the Main Divide and the south faces of the Sealy Range, offer excellent routes that are longer and more technically difficult, combined with a touch of remoteness.
The Mueller Glacier area is prone to avalanche hazard especially in winter through to early summer due to topography, altitude and exposure to strong west and south-west winds.
The lower Mueller Glacier and Sealy Range from Mt Sefton, November 2015
Access to Mueller Hut
2A: Follow the track from either the village or the Hooker valley carpark to the Sealy Tarns, and then a poled route through tussock, rock and snow to the crest of the Sealy Range. Cross the ridge and turn sharp left, passing over rocky terrain on the west (Mueller Glacier) side of the ridge to reach the hut close under Mt Ollivier (about 20 mins from where the track first reaches the ridge). The route can be exposed to extremely strong north-west winds and avalanche hazards.
Time: 3 hrs
Lower Mueller Glacier via lake edge
2B: The direct routes on Mt Sefton’s east face can be accessed by following the true right edge of the Mueller Lake from the first swing bridge on the Hooker valley track. The lake edge is unstable and prone to rock fall from above. Glacial recession will continue to make access around the lake difficult. Check conditions with DOC staff.
Lower Mueller Glacier via lower Sealy Range
2C: Gain the crest of the Sealy Range via the Sealy Tarns track and descend directly to the glacier. A prominent spur leading directly down towards the Grind/Mueller confluence appears to offer a route, but beware of large gaps in the bedrock where the shrinking glacier has caused slumping. Conditions on this route are likely to get worse in coming years.
Barron Saddle Hut via upper Mueller Glacier
2D: From Mueller Hut head south and drop over the ridge on tussock and scree to the edge of the moraine wall and then the moraine-covered glacier. It’s relatively straightforward travel up the centre of the glacier on moraine and ice until up against the north-east face of Scissors. Turn left up scree and snow benches to gain easy-angled slopes near the saddle. Barron Saddle is the westernmost of two saddles. Barron Saddle is on a shelf 400m to the north-east.
Mueller Hut to Barron Saddle Hut via glacier: 5–7 hrs
Barron Saddle Hut via Sladden Saddle
2E: Known as the ‘high route’, this route is very scenic but potentially dangerous if avalanche risk is elevated. Sladden Saddle may be cut off in late summer. From Mueller Hut, traverse below Ollivier and Kitchener about 200m below the ridge and then climb gradually up onto Annette Plateau. Cross onto the Metelille Glacier and climb the short slope to Sladden Saddle (there are usually small schrunds at the base of the slope). Descent to the Sladden Glacier and traverse below the north ridge of Mt Darby via a shelf 250m above the Mueller Glacier. From here, drop into a basin below the Williams Glacier and then ascent the final snow slope to Barron Saddle Hut.
Mueller Hut to Barron Saddle Hut via Sladden Saddle: 6–8 hrs
Shelter
- Mueller Hut (DOC): altitude 1800m, grid ref BX15 636 549, 28 bunks, gas cooking in summer, radio, solar lights. Mobile coverage. Bookings necessary in summer, see DOC website.
- Barron Saddle Hut (DOC): altitude 1900m, grid ref BY15 585 505, sleeps eight, has some cooking equipment, radio and solar lights.
