South Face | ClimbNZ

Type

Face

Part of

Nazomi

Approached from the Mona Glacier.

Aspect

South

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Quality
3.109 or BDR	3.109 or BDR Dark Hope, 5-,WI4	5-,WI4	450m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 5- Water Ice WI4 450m Follows the major ice line to the left of Runts in Paradise. Ben started out by heading up frozen snow from the schrund and then up steeper waterfall ice in a gully on the right. The first 15-metre high step of over 85-degree ice was the crux of the 450-metre face, which alternated between ‘short ice steps’ and snow, leading up to steeper mixed terrain before hitting the ridgeline. Another 150 metres along the ridgeline allowed access to the summit
3.110 and RIP	3.110 and RIPRunts in Paradise, V,5,5-	V,5,5-	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 5- Gullies left of the Faintly French Route, with a snow slope to start. This route climbs ice to the left of the left rib and takes a left-hand gully at half height. P2 Alpine (Technical) 5 Alpine (Commitment) V Alpine (Mt Cook) 5-
NC	NCNo country for old men, 5	5	0m	0
Seven 60m pitches, starts up snow slopes as for Runts in Paradise but continues up closer to the left rib (Faintly French) when Runts heads left and up. P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 5
FF	FFFaintly French, 15,3+	15,3+	0m	0
P1 15 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+ Climb the left rib, rock scrambling changing to steep climbing on an arête (crux 15) followed by easier broken rock 200m below the summit.
MRR	MRRMajor Runt Route, 5	5	0m	1.02
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 5 The obvious central couloir between the two major buttresses.
CWR	CWRCormack-Wilson Rib, 3+	3+	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+ Up the middle rib which steepens in the middle before reaching a shelf below the final 150m of poor rock.
AR	ARAndy's route, 5	5	0m	0
Ice line immediately R of Cormack -Wilson rib and left of Slightly Scottish. Was ascended accidentally being mistaken for the line of Slightly Scottish due to that having been wrongly marked in earlier Guide books.. Immediately got a second ascent by Sam Bossard and Paula MacFarlane P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 5
SS	SSSlightly Scottish, V,6,WI5	V,6,WI5	0m	3
An ice climb up the couloir to right of Cormack-Wilson Rib. Where the couloir cuts right to the South Ridge move left and up (crux) to reach the shelf, then out onto the upper South Ridge. 17 x 40m pitches. This is a steep climb and further R than Andys route. They share the same finish P1 Alpine (Commitment) V Alpine (Mt Cook) 6 Water Ice WI5 "The" line on the face to date. An ice climb up the couloir to right of Cormack-Wilson Rib. Sustained climbing through middle section with vertical and overhanging ice encountered. When first climbed there was pronounced rockfall on the first two piches as the bottleneck collects all debris between Cormack-Wilson rib and TTSB. Objective danger should lessen rapidly on subsequent pitches. 450/500m depending on the collection/debris cone at the base.
TTSB	TTSBThe Turkey Strikes Back (Right Rib), 13,3+	13,3+	0m	0
P1 13 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3+ Third buttress right of the MacInness R. A rotten rock start leads to climbing on sound compact rock with sustained difficulties
	South Ridge, 3	3	0m	0
P1 Alpine (Mt Cook) 3 The start from the head of the Mona Glacier névé is steep and has been avoided by using couloirs on the west to emerge where the ridge flattens. A prominent tower 200m below the summit is turned on the east. The rock is variable. Descended in winter 1993 by Andy MacFarlane.

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Comments

Attribution

Alex Palman. Topo's Simon Middlemass 2016

UUID

ddd61c66-51eb-426a-9e0b-764334ae0ec6