South Face

(10 routes)

Approached from the Mona Glacier.

Face (Alpine)
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
BDR Ben Dare Route 5- WI4 450m
Ben started out by heading up frozen snow from the schrund and then up steeper waterfall ice in a gully on the right. The first 15-metre high step of over 85-degree ice was the crux of the 450-metre face, which alternated between ‘short ice steps’ and snow, leading up to steeper mixed terrain before hitting the ridgeline. Another 150 metres along the ridgeline allowed access to the summit
Ben Dare, 9th/10th December 2013
RIP Runts in Paradise 5-
Gullies left of the Faintly French Route, with a snow slope to start. This route climbs ice to the left of the left rib and takes a left-hand variant gully at half height.
Graham Saunders, Rik Thwaites, Jan 1988.
NC No country for old men 5
Seven 60m pitches, starts up snow slopes as for Runts in Paradise but continues up closer to the left rib (Faintly French) when Runts heads left and up.
Felix Landman and Llewellyn Murdoch, 18 November 2011
FF Faintly French 3+ 15
Climb the left rib, rock scrambling changing to steep climbing on an arête (crux 15) followed by easier broken rock 200m below the summit.
Stu Skeen, Richard Howes, Feb 1984.
MRR Major Runt Route 5
The obvious central couloir between the two major buttresses.
Russell Braddock, Nick Parks, Dec 1984.
CWR Cormack-Wilson Rib 3+
Up the middle rib which steepens in the middle before reaching a shelf below the final 150m of poor rock.
H W Cormack, L W Wilson, Dec 1936.
AR Andy's route 5
Ice line immediately R of Cormack -Wilson rib and left of Slightly Scottish. Was ascended accidentally being mistaken for the line of Slightly Scottish due to that having been wrongly marked in earlier Guide books.. Immediately got a second ascent by Sam Bossard and Paula MacFarlane
Andy MacFarlane winter 1993
SS Slightly Scottish 6-
An ice climb up the couloir to right of Cormack-Wilson Rib. Where the couloir cuts right to the South Ridge move left and up (crux) to reach the shelf, then out onto the upper South Ridge. 17 x 40m pitches. This is a steep climb and further R than Andys route. They share the same finish
Murray Ball, Bryan McArthur, Zane Williams, Jan 1980.
TTSB The Turkey Strikes Back (Right Rib) 3+ 13
Third buttress right of the MacInness R. A rotten rock start leads to climbing on sound compact rock with sustained difficulties
Roddy McKenzie, Craig Nottle, Graeme Saunders, Jan 1982.
South Ridge 3
The start from the head of the Mona Glacier névé is steep and has been avoided by using couloirs on the west to emerge where the ridge flattens. A prominent tower 200m below the summit is turned on the east. The rock is variable. Descended in winter 1993 by Andy MacFarlane.
C J Burrows, W A Croll, Dec 1955.
Alex Palman. Topo's Simon Middlemass 2016

This place appears in