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Mt Pibrac


Mt Cook Range

POINT (170.145972 -43.632)
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Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 From Hooker Glacier, 3- 3-

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-

From Hooker Glacier ascend via the Mona Glacier onto either the West Ridge, North Face, or North Ridge (Divide). The rock on Pibrac is good at the bottom but deteriorates markedly towards the top.

 Via Ball Pass

  • P1

North from Ball Pass over Turner Peak. The easiest routes are via Ball Pass either along the ridge or traversing around the Ball Glacier. This area was the scene of many ascents when guides were based at Ball Hut.

 JM Goes Tramping (South Face), 4,WI2 4,WI2 350m

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4
  • Water Ice WI2
  • 350m

Up obvious snow gully leading left of summit. Then along straightforwardish ridge a few minutes to the summit. Easy access via Turner Peak or Proud Pass. Descent is less straightforward: either go down to Mona Glacier (Nazomi side, this is easy but presumably wont take you back to your tent) and then to Hooker Gl or on Tasman side (solar aspect, softens up quickly). The original ascentionist soloed down a somewhat easier line on the S Face but this was uncomfortably steep lower down and a rope would be recommended. The direct line to the summit would be somewhat harder but in good conditions would be a classic. Route named after the climber absconded from an Otago University Tramping Club trip over Ball Pass to link up solo ascents of Turner and Pibrac.

 The Shaft (West Face), 5,WI3 5,WI3

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 5
  • Water Ice WI3


Alex Palman