Hooker Face

(4 routes)

A series of routes commencing from the Upper Empress Shelf.

Type: 
Face (Alpine)
Aspect: 
West
Access: 

To get onto the Upper Empress Shelf climb the glacier/icefall at the northern end where it descends to the Lower Empress Shelf, adjacent to Earle’s Ridge. This route usually becomes impassable from January onward. As an alternative, use “Earle’s Gap”. This is the low point on the lower Earle’s Ridge. From the upper Sheila Glacier climb a snow tongue (and possibly a pitch of rock) onto Earle’s Ridge – above the gap. Once on the ridge it is usually necessary to climb along the ridge for a pitch or more to avoid the large glacial holes on the southern side.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Couloir to the right of Earle’s Route 4+
0
Ascend the couloir to the right of Earle’s Route and through gullies on rock to the left of the main face to reach the summit ridge near the High Peak. Beware of rockfall in the gully.
Right Hand Buttresses
0
Two buttresses to the right of the gully were ascended by R Coombs and K Henshall, and B Dawkins and S Thompson in Dec 1969, but the first ascent of the, "Couloir to the right of Earle’s Route" which has been climbed a number of times, is unrecorded.
Standard Route 4+
0
Up a short steep gully onto a sustained iceshield, often of hard ice, which leads to the summit ridge. First ascent party unknown.
Right Hand Couloir 4
0
Via a short couloir and then either up good rock on the ribs to left or right (the standard Hooker Face route) or up the broad gully between the ribs.
H P Barcham, D Herron, Graham McCallum, Richard Tornquist, Dec 1956.

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UUID: 
d8f6373f-117d-4675-99bc-2f9fe15ca327