What a climb! Look at it and feel the history seep into you. The last of the major faces of Aoraki to be climbed, but not the most difficult. The lower half is usually threatened by some gnarly icecliffs.
Interestingly, this is not an uncommon route for people to solo – despite (because of?) the dangers.
From the Caroline Glacier ascend an avalanche fan to gain the rock and snow arête to the right of the central icefall. Above here follow the obvious arête up to the major icecliffs cutting across the face. Depending on their condition, the cliffs can be the technical crux of the climb. Continue up a broad rib onto the 45 degree summit icefields and continue to join the summit ridge between Porter Col and Middle Peak. Incredibly, this route was skied in the spring of 2017 with a couple of abseils.
A few variations are possible: some parties have avoided the lower part of the face by traversing from Cinerama Col, while others have climbed to above the icecliffs then finished up the East Ridge.
- P1
- Alpine (Commitment) VI
- Alpine (Technical) 4
- Alpine (Mt Cook) 5