Place info

Aoraki Mt Cook Low Pk

(20 routes)

Approx 1.5 km south of the high peak

  • 3593m



Approx 1.5 km south of the high peak

H36 791 292
BX15 692 676
Reference Name Grade Quality Length Comments Actions
  This is a general term for a number of routes leading from the Lower Empress Shelf onto the West Ridge. The most regular routes are up either the narrow or the broad couloir in the NW Buttress, and then up a broad gully or the rocks further left to gain the West Ridge at about 3200m where it flattens out. A commonly used descent route – but beware of rockfall in the lower part of the couloir – scene of a number of fatalities.

Peter Graham, Freda Du Faur, Darby Thomson, January 1913 (as part of the first Grand Traverse); Murray Cullen, John Entwisle, August 1977 (NW Couloir/West Ridge)

  Commencing either at the foot of main West Ridge above Gardiner Hut, or gaining the ridge at certain points on the northern side, follow up on good rock. From Gardiner Hut the ridge is a long climb. The strata lead onto the South Face, so tend left until the ridge flattens at 3200m.

Peter Graham, Henrik Sillem, March 1906 (first ascent of the Low Peak); Keith Thompson, Bob Cunninghame, June 1972

  Formerly known as the South Ridge, renamed in honour of Sir Ed (who was part of the first ascent party) in August 2011. From the Noeline Glacier ascend to Endeavour Col (beware of rockfall – an alternative approach lies over Nazomi). Then ascend both the first and second steps on the east side. The third, crux step can be climbed direct. The rock is generally very loose. Then follow a classic arête to the summit.

Harry Ayres, Ruth Adams, Ed Hillary, Mick Sullivan, January 1948; Graeme Dingle, Noel Sissons, July 1972

Alex Palamn
This place appears in: 
Aoraki Mount Cook: a guide for mountaineers


Face South Face (14 routes)
Face Caroline Face (3 routes)
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