The Abbess

Gain Abbey Pass and descend to the Monk Glacier, towards Pinnacle Stream, then climb an easy couloir to the summit.

Follow ramps west of the ridge base to gain a wide chimney. Continue on good rock and loose ledges up the ridge, deviating west as required. Climb 4 pitches of 13-15 through a large pyramid shaped slab at c2000m trending east till a traverse on the east side ends at a col behind the pyramid with a good bivvy ledge. Follow the west side of the ridge till it turns west and the glacier is reached. Climb exposed grade 13-15 on good rock then gain summit via loose slopes and the ridge from the south. Straightforward descent off the NW face. A long fun route on mostly good rock. Around 10 pitches.