The Nuns Veil

Catch the boat up the lake and then cross the Murchison River. Alternatively, cross the Tasman Glacier and then deal with the Murchison River. Ascend an unnamed creek to the prominent couloir leading up between Nun’s Veil and Mt Biretta. From the top of couloir climb a rock ridge to the summit.

Takes the central buttress on the West Face. Head up the groove on the left hand side of the face, continue past two rock bands (top one may be snow filled), then tend left into a gully leading to the top. The route involves 900m of climbing, compact pink slabs, chimneys, scrambling and one crux pitch of grade 20.

Catch the boat to the south-eastern side of the lake and travel south to Gorilla Stream, some parties have crossed the Tasman River near to Gorilla Stream – but this may not be possible in summer). Follow Gorilla Stream and ascend easily up the glacier to the summit. The last bit to the top is a bit exposed. The top offers a glorious viewpoint. At the head of Gorilla Stream a bivvy rock offers a small amount of protection (take a fly to add to it). From the lake to the bivvy rock allow ~6hrs.

Use the Jollie River, then Pinnacle Stream.