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i) Head up beside the waterfall, over grass and scree to the hanging valley west of the peak. Continue to the crest of the ridge and follow for 800m to the summit, traversing snow domes along the way. ii) Scramble up grass and scree to the glacier north of the peak and then climb a snow gully to the north-east ridge. Traverse south-west over low peak to high peak. iii) From Rutherford Pass traverse north-east along a rock and snow ridge to the summit, over 3 km away! Alternatively, and no doubt easier, cross the pass and travel along the remnant Ridge Glacier and snow slopes on the south-east side of the Liebig Range. iv) From the Cass Valley. Gain the Ridge Glacier or Rutherford Pass then continue as for iii. This is a good route to ski tour.
Otto Frind, Conrad Kain, Jan 1914
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