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Earle’s Gap

Type
Altitude
2850m
Part of

Earle’s Gap is the level section at about 2850m Earle Ridge. You’ll need to get to Earle Gap (or at least pretty close) in order to access the Empress Shelf.

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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
 Direct, 3+,II 3+,II
0

Climb directly from the Sheila Glacier, depending on the season can involve anything from one straightforward pitch of snow and rock to three steep pitches of rock.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+
  • Alpine (Commitment) II

 Empress Icefall, 3,III 3,III
0

Navigate the icefall draining the true right edge of the Empress Shelf. This can involve very complicated route finding through crevasses and seracs.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

 Lower Earle Ridge, 3,III 3,III
0

Follow the lower ridge from Empress Hut. This starts with a couple of steep pitches then relents, although near Earle’s Gap it narrows. This would be a time consuming option but, in some cases, may be the only feasible route.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

 Don’t Call Me Dude, 17,4 17,4 350m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4
  • 350m

Crest of the buttress between the upper and lower Empress Shelves. Excellent rock with no objective danger. 350m, crux 17. Descend via Earle’s Gap or glacier.


Comments
UUID
 
ff1dbe34-3908-458f-8caf-c12f5b0a19f1