Earle’s Gap

(4 routes)

Earle’s Gap is the level section at about 2850m Earle Ridge. You’ll need to get to Earle Gap (or at least pretty close) in order to access the Empress Shelf.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
Direct II 3+
Climb directly from the Sheila Glacier, depending on the season can involve anything from one straightforward pitch of snow and rock to three steep pitches of rock.
Jack Clarke, Laurence Earle, Alec Graham, PeterGraham, March 1909
Empress Icefall III 3
Navigate the icefall draining the true right edge of the Empress Shelf. This can involve very complicated route finding through crevasses and seracs.
Lower Earle Ridge III 3
Follow the lower ridge from Empress Hut. This starts with a couple of steep pitches then relents, although near Earle’s Gap it narrows. This would be a time consuming option but, in some cases, may be the only feasible route.
Don’t Call Me Dude 4 17 350m
Crest of the buttress between the upper and lower Empress Shelves. Excellent rock with no objective danger. 350m, crux 17. Descend via Earle’s Gap or glacier.
Peter Dickson, February 1992

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