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Aoraki Mt Cook Low Pk

Type
Mountain
Altitude
3593m
Part of
Kirikirikatata Mt Cook Range
Aerial view of the huge western flank of Aoraki Mt Cook in very broken condition, March 2013
Rights credit
Gavin Lang/First Light Guiding
Lat/lon
-43.60910951,170.13942719, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BX15 692 676
Accessed from
Hooker Glacier
Ball Glacier
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Places

Type Name Alert
Face South Face
Face Caroline Face

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 North West Couloir, 3 3 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

This is a general term for a number of routes leading from the Lower Empress Shelf onto the West Ridge. The most regular routes are up either the narrow or the broad couloir in the NW Buttress, and then up a broad gully or the rocks further left to gain the West Ridge at about 3200m where it flattens out. A commonly used descent route – but beware
of rockfall in the lower part of the couloir – scene of a number of fatalities.
3.85 3.85West Ridge, IV,3+ IV,3+ 0m
1.02

A fantastic, extended rock scramble, but a very long climb. Commence either at the foot of the main west ridge above Pudding Rock, or climb further left on snow to gain the ridge at certain points on the northern side, then proceed up on good rock. Accessing the ridge from the large snow ‘tongue’ feeding the southern end of the Empress Glacier probably provides the fastest route up Low Peak from the west, but many parties will prefer not to bypass the more interesting lower ridge. The strata leads onto the south face, so tend left until the ridge flattens at 3200m.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) IV
  • Alpine (Technical) 3+

Commencing either at the foot of main West Ridge above Gardiner Hut, or
gaining the ridge at certain points on the northern side, follow up on good rock. From Gardiner Hut the ridge is a long climb. The strata lead onto the South Face, so tend left until the ridge flattens at 3200m.
3.100 3.100South (Hillary) Ridge, V,3,4- V,3,4- 0m
1.02
  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) V
  • Alpine (Technical) 3
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4-

Formerly known as the South Ridge, renamed in honour of Sir Ed (who was part of the first ascent party) in August 2011.
There was a major rock fall event from the slope
below the ridge in July 2014 (refer to www.geonet.
org.nz for more details), which may mean this route
has become more dangerous or more difficult.
From the Noeline Glacier ascend to Endeavour
Col directly, or, in the style of the first ascent, climb
Route 3.104 and bivvy near the summit of Nazomi
to approach the col along the ridge. Then ascend
both the first and second rock steps on the east side.
The third, crux step can be climbed direct. The rock
is mostly loose, especially on the first step. From
the top of the third step, follow a classic arête to the
summit of Low Peak via the smaller fourth step.
Comments
This place appears in
Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
ATP 2018 (Rob Frost)
UUID
 
d7b380fb-d859-4313-86b7-8fdd0222bcdc