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Conway Pk

Type
Altitude
2891m

tba

Lat/lon
POINT (170.214215 -43.53088774)
Topo50
BX16 749 765
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Places

Type Name Alert
Mountain Moonshine Buttress

Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Via Bristol Top or Frenchay Col, 3 3 0m
0

Follow the Main Divide from either Bristol Top or Frenchay Col. Conway itself is just off the Divide to the west.


  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

 East Ridge, II,2,2+ II,2,2+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 2
  • Alpine (Commitment) II
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

From the Franz Josef Névé ascend to Frenchay Col (2685m) and up the Main Divide ridge before turning northwest and up to the summit.


 Explorer Glacier via Bristol Top, 2+ 2+ 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

From Bristol Top head along the pinnacled Main Divide and onto the summit just off the Divide.


 Sunshine Buttress, III,5,17 III,5,17 0m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • Alpine (Technical) 5
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

This route is on the buttress to the right of Moonshine Buttress. Six or so pitches of grade 17 climbing on good rock. A small section of argillite needs care but it does not detract from the overall good experience. The final pitch is 50m at grade 17.


 The Vision III, 7+, III,7 III,7 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Technical) 7
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

The gully line on the left-hand edge of the buttress. Six pitches that require a variety of fixed gear. The crux is at pitch four with a problematic rock step corner. The first ascent went up the thin crack on the right and used a few points of aid. Kester Brown and Jono Clarke climbed the overhanging corner free—hard technical climbing (M6) and runout to where the roof joins the corner. The route does form as a big white-ice line—in those conditions you’ll wonder what all the fuss was about.


 Life in the Fridge III, 4+, III III 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

This is a variant of The Vision. At the crux of The Vision head right up a leaning ramp. Johnny Davison, Allan Uren, Aug 2006


 Technospectacle III, 8, III III 0m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III

A line of ‘most resistance’ taking a devious line on the face to link up three sections of difficult mixed ground. The first two pitches are straightforward gully climbing. The third pitch through a rock band is tricky to protect, but not the crux. The fifth pitch is the crux (M7) and starts off the ramp of Life in the Fridge. It climbs a thin finger of ice and bare rock—a serious lead. One more pitch to the ridge, finishing at the top of The Vision.


GH GHThe Grey Hare, III,4+,WI3,M3 III,4+,WI3,M3 300m
0

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 4+
  • Water Ice WI3
  • Mixed M3
  • 300m

5 pitch ice, snow, and mixed route that starts off in the corner just left of the slabby rock (of the buttress to the right of Moonshine buttress,) and goes up a corner/chimney. The route can be taken up to the saddle in 4 pitches or you can take an alternate end and go right up the obvious gullies for a bit more ice/mixed fun. Bring your snowstake for getting off the sloping top. P1: 30m WI2+ to the bottom of the steep traversing bulge. You can use the chimney to lay back against. P2: 55m WI2+ with WI3 crux. Tackle the crux and move into the left gully. This takes you up to the snow slopes. P3: 60m WI2+ more blue ice up the gully until you come out to the snow slope, find some ice to belay off. P4: 60m 60 degree snow slope, may be iced up in different conditions. P5: 60+m WI2+ M3/4 Ice runnels up between mixed ground. Mostly M3 with some M4 moves. Tops out on the snow slope or build a rock belay before topping out.


Comments
Attribution
AORAKI TAI POUTINI
a guide for mountaineers 2018
Rob Frost
UUID
 
789533ac-16f6-4900-8c80-20eeac047cac