Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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Via Bristol Top or Frenchay Col. | 3 |
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Follow the Main Divide from either Bristol Top or Frenchay Col. Conway itself is just off the Divide to the west.
Frank Milne, Harold Porter, Mar 1925.
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East Ridge | II 2 2+ |
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From the Franz Josef Névé ascend to Frenchay Col (2685m) and up the Main Divide ridge before turning northwest and up to the summit.
Ida Corry, Mark Lysons, Jan 1933
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Explorer Glacier via Bristol Top | 2+ |
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From Bristol Top head along the pinnacled Main Divide and onto the summit just off the Divide.
Alex Graham, Henry Newton, Feb 1907.
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Sunshine Buttress | III 5 17 |
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This route is on the buttress to the right of Moonshine Buttress. Six or so pitches of grade 17 climbing on good rock. A small section of argillite needs care but it does not detract from
the overall good experience. The final pitch is 50m at grade 17.
Craig Cardie, Allan Uren, 2004
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The Vision III, 7+ | III 7 |
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The gully line on the left-hand edge of the
buttress. Six pitches that require a variety of fixed
gear. The crux is at pitch four with a problematic
rock step corner. The first ascent went up the
thin crack on the right and used a few points
of aid. Kester Brown and Jono Clarke climbed
the overhanging corner free—hard technical
climbing (M6) and runout to where the roof joins
the corner. The route does form as a big white-ice
line—in those conditions you’ll wonder what all
the fuss was about.
FA: Adrian Camm, Johnny Davison, Julian White, Allan Uren, winter 2006
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Life in the Fridge III, 4+ | III |
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This is a variant of The Vision. At the crux of The
Vision head right up a leaning ramp.
Johnny Davison, Allan Uren, Aug 2006
Johnny Davison, Allan Uren, Aug 2006
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Technospectacle III, 8 | III |
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A line of ‘most resistance’ taking a devious
line on the face to link up three sections of
difficult mixed ground. The first two pitches are
straightforward gully climbing. The third pitch
through a rock band is tricky to protect, but not
the crux. The fifth pitch is the crux (M7) and starts off the ramp of Life in the Fridge. It climbs
a thin finger of ice and bare rock—a serious lead.
One more pitch to the ridge, finishing at the top
of The Vision.
Jono Clarke, Jamie Vinton-Boot, Aug 2011
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GH | The Grey Hare | III 4+ WI3 M3 | 300m |
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5 pitch ice, snow, and mixed route that starts off in the corner just left of the slabby rock (of the buttress to the right of Moonshine buttress,) and goes up a corner/chimney. The route can be taken up to the saddle in 4 pitches or you can take an alternate end and go right up the obvious gullies for a bit more ice/mixed fun. Bring your snowstake for getting off the sloping top.
P1: 30m WI2+ to the bottom of the steep traversing bulge. You can use the chimney to lay back against.
P2: 55m WI2+ with WI3 crux. Tackle the crux and move into the left gully. This takes you up to the snow slopes.
P3: 60m WI2+ more blue ice up the gully until you come out to the snow slope, find some ice to belay off.
P4: 60m 60 degree snow slope, may be iced up in different conditions.
P5: 60+m WI2+ M3/4 Ice runnels up between mixed ground. Mostly M3 with some M4 moves. Tops out on the snow slope or build a rock belay before topping out.
Jacob Downie, Evan Davies, Sept 8, 2018.
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Attribution:
AORAKI TAI POUTINI
a guide for mountaineers 2018
Rob Frost
Places
Type | Title | Link to edit content |
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Mountain | Moonshine Buttress (5 routes) |
This place appears in
UUID:
789533ac-16f6-4900-8c80-20eeac047cac