MacInnes Ridge

A sustained classic with a better cheval than Malte Brun’s West Ridge. Some parties have taken a long time on this climb, so don’t underestimate it. Starting from the lower Hooker Glacier beside the stream from the Mona Glacier, climb the first buttress (the only continuous loose rock of the climb), then onto the second buttress of good rock (with a 20m cheval) and up to the ‘Gnome’, from where a short descent leads onto a small glacier below the final wall. An escape route above Pt 2560m exists to the left. Otherwise, continue straight up variable rock to the summit ridge. This section can often be iced up.
Lincoln Hall and Tim McCartney-Snape made a superb link up of MacInnes Ridge and Aoraki South Ridge in the summer of 1977-78.