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Mt Halcombe

Type
Mountain
Altitude
2659m
Part of
Fritz Range
Lat/lon
-43.51118411,170.1882397, NZ Topo Map
Topo50
BT24 680 305
Accessed from
Franz Josef Glacier Kā Roimata-a-Hinehukatere
Fox Glacier Te Moeka o Tuawe
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 North Couloir, 3- 3- 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-

A popular half-day outing rewarded with fantastic views of the Main Divide peaks and the Franz Josef Névé. There are a number of routes. The easiest appears to be the narrow gully on the north side, accessed from the flat col west of the peak.

 East-West Traverse, 3- 3- 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3-

From Christie follow the ridge to Halcombe.
 Pioneer Face, 2+ 2+ 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 2+

The broad snow face that can be seen from Pioneer Hut.
 Pioneer Face, Variant 1 0m
0
  • P1

A short loose rock band to the west followed by snowslopes to the summit. Climbed from near the same col as the North Couloir.
 Pioneer Face Variant 2, 3 3 0m
0
  • P1
  • Alpine (Mt Cook) 3

A good quality rock buttress on the Franz side of Halcombe offers a worthwhile three pitch route. The last pitch is desperately loose however, so rapping off is recommended.

 Blitzing Everywhere, III,4,M3 III,4,M3 0m
0

Up the S Bend coolie not described in guide book for two pitches of
mixed(M3/4). Followed by 45-60 degree Snow/Ice for 100 m to true summit.
Rapped into and down main coolie (Very loose rock on descent). Not sure if
this has been climbed by another party before, no evidence of it to be found.

  • P1
  • Alpine (Commitment) III
  • Alpine (Technical) 4
  • Mixed M3
Comments
This place appears in
Aoraki Tai Poutini: a guide for mountaineers, 2018
Buy this guidebook
Attribution
Alex Palman
UUID
 
dc517fd2-d3ef-4d20-b423-87d129fbf470