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Meteora Buttress

OPEN: Access is subject to conditions.
Updated 22 December 2024, by Richard Thomson.

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Type
Sector
Part of
Sheridan Hills

The big blade shaped pinnacle you walk past on the way to Flying Cow Buttress.

Walktime
2 minutes
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Alert Operations
 Euridice, 16 16 20m 10
1.02
  • P1
  • 16
  • 20m
  • 10

Climb the long arête up the road side of Meteora Buttress. The crux is on the headwall then climb on to DBC belay on top.

 Lucky Stars, 10 10 8m 4
0
  • P1
  • 10
  • 8m
  • 4

Climb the left hand side of the north face. Traverse right at the top to the DBC belay that is most convenient.
 Tortoise, 10 10 8m 4
0
  • P1
  • 10
  • 8m
  • 4

1-2m right of Lucky Stars. Originally climbed solo to access the top of the pinnacle.

 Terrapin, 16 16 12m 5
2.01
  • P1
  • 16
  • 12m
  • 5

Climb the narrow west face of the buttress. Belay from a ledge with DBC. Climb up the centre of the face then move right at half height. Great pocket climbing in a fantastic situation. DBC belays on top. Rebolted in 2015 with stainless steel hangers.

"project" "project"The Great A'Tuin, 16 16 10m 5
0
  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • 5

Climbs the left side of the arete left of Terrapin. Somewhat unstable rock lower down, to finish at Terrapin's anchors. Marked on the topo picture as "project", and apologies for stepping on anyones toes. Bolted and climbed 19/03/16.

Images

Comments
UUID
 
4333e40a-5c77-4c86-962e-74bdcaef74c9