Seaward Face

(5 routes)

Long, sunny, gentle slab climbs on good rock, at least on the initial pitches.

Altitude: 
2m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
West
Access: 

South of The Slab, climb up and over the foot of The Pinnacle to reach these routes. The second pitches all share the same double bolt belay at the top of The Pinnacle.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Te Ika Variant 11 20m
0
wire representing trad
Pad up the countersunk slab to the large crack. Climb this and step around on to the north side of the ridge to belay. There is now a double bolt anchor for instructional purposes at the top of the slab (110mm titanium bolts placed in March 2018).
2 Neptune 12 ,12 44m
0
wire representing trad
Quite a wandering climb.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11221mYes
 

Climb the large corner to the ledge in the middle of the face and the Black Back Cleft belay.

21223mYes
 

Up and back left across the slab to the ridge, and on to the summit.

3 Slabber 14 20m
0
wire representing trad
Start two metres right of the corner up a good crack to the big ledge. Can be climbed as an alternate first pitch to Black Back Cleft, or you can continue on up the second pitch of that route to make one long 40 metre pitch.
4 Black Back Cleft 15 ,13 40m
0
5bolts wire representing trad
Belay anchors at the top and bottom were replaced with 110mm titanium glue-in bolts in March 2018. The anchor at the top of Pitch 1 was untouched.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11520m2Yes
 

Climb the face past two bolts to the big ledge. The crux is at the second bolt.

21320m3Yes
 

Up the slab past three more bolts to the top of the Pinnacle.

Alan Silva (roped solo), November 1995
5 Maui 14 ,14 45m
0
wire representing trad
From the beach, climb the short steep wall on to the slab. Now follow the right-hand edge of the face to belay at the ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11425mYes
 

From the beach, climb the short steep wall on to the slab. Now follow the right-hand edge of the face to belay at the ledge.

21420mYes
 

Directly up the ridge to the top. The large flake is loose to touch: be careful!

Graeme Dingle, c1970

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UUID: 
db6bd8e4-75fc-42e7-9b97-edc2fb3f3991