North Face

(11 routes)

The North Face has some good long climbs on good (for Titahi Bay) rock, both trad and sport routes.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 The Skull 18 15m
wire representing trad
Climb the left-hand crack, then up the wall to the top of the Pinnacle.
John Masters, 1967
2 Coops and Robbers 17 16m
wire representing trad
The rather intimidating thin right-hand seam on the upper section of the face.
Robin Cooper, c1980
3 Nag Nag Nag 18 23m
wire representing trad
Like a 1980s flashback, most will hate it, some will appreciate it, few will climb it. Start down at the bottom of the face, just right of the chimney. Swing through the bulge, then step your way up the wall on good incuts with good protection. There are more good runners in a horizontal break below the crux bulge – pretty much the last decent ones, and the rock deteriorates a bit in the last few metres.
Richard Thomson, Tom Riley, December 2010
4 Joie de Vivre 19 23m
6bolts wire representing trad 2
Climb the corner 3m right of the chimney, and continue straight up the wall. The faint-hearted can place a cam between the first and second bolts. Double bolt belay.
Kristen Foley, November 2004
Sloth Direct 18 20m
3bolts wire representing trad
Big moves in the steep corner 3m right of the chimney. Once at the ledge, continue up Sloth.
5 Sloth 18 18m
2bolts wire representing trad 1
Scramble up to the ledge, then layback the wide, shallow crack to reach easier ground. Past the second bolt move right on big holds and step up to a ledge and double bolt belay. Steep, solid rock and committing, balancy moves make this a classic route.
Graeme Dingle, c1970
Sloth Variation 19 23m
5bolts wire representing trad
Climb Sloth, but move left to join Joie de Vivre after the second bolt.
6 Slack 18 18m
wire representing trad
Climb Sloth, but instead of moving right to the belay, traverse left below the overhangs all the way into the main gully. Or finish up Nag Nag Nag. Climbed as a trad route.
Richard Thomson, Salena Davie, 2001
7 Sluggard 20 18m
2bolts wire representing trad 2
Scramble up to the ledge. Arrange as much protection as you can in the argillite feature right of Sloth. Move up and right to a jug, then back left to better gear before finishing straight up to the Sloth belay.
Clark Alston, 3 December 2006
8 Te Ika 16 ,14 45m
wire representing trad
The seaward arete of the Pinnacle.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad

Gain the arete using grooves on its north side. Belay either at the large crack or move slightly left to the Sloth double bolt belay.


Continue up the arete to the top of the Pinnacle. The gear is slightly spaced but you can use the Joie de Vivre belay and the top bolt on Black back Cleft as runners.

7a Sleuth 15 18m
Lovely climbing following the slanting groove on the right hand side of the face. Previously top-roped as an extension to Roland's problem. Start under the small overhang, up to the large flake then leftwards to the Sloth DB belay
Clark Alston May 2019