North Face | ClimbNZ

Type

Sector

Part of

The Pinnacle

The North Face has some good long climbs on good (for Titahi Bay) rock, both trad and sport routes.

Aspect

East

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Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1The Skull, 18	18	15m		0
P1 18 15m Trad Climb the left-hand crack, then up the wall to the top of the Pinnacle.
2	2Coops and Robbers, 17	17	16m		0
P1 17 16m Trad The rather intimidating thin right-hand seam on the upper section of the face.
3	3Nag Nag Nag, 18	18	23m		1.02
P1 18 23m Trad Like a 1980s flashback, most will hate it, some will appreciate it, few will climb it. Start down at the bottom of the face, just right of the chimney. Swing through the bulge, then step your way up the wall on good incuts with good protection. There are more good runners in a horizontal break below the crux bulge – pretty much the last decent ones, and the rock deteriorates a bit in the last few metres.
4	4Joie de Vivre, 19	19	23m	6	2.01
P1 19 23m 6 Trad Climb the corner 3m right of the chimney, and continue straight up the wall. The faint-hearted can place a cam between the first and second bolts. Double bolt belay.
	Sloth Direct, 18	18	20m	3	0
P1 18 20m 3 Trad Big moves in the steep corner 3m right of the chimney. Once at the ledge, continue up Sloth.
5	5Sloth, 18	18	18m	2	3
P1 18 18m 2 Trad Scramble up to the ledge, then layback the wide, shallow crack to reach easier ground. Past the second bolt move right on big holds and step up to a ledge and double bolt belay. Steep, solid rock and committing, balancy moves make this a classic route.
	Sloth Variation, 19	19	23m	5	2.01
P1 19 23m 5 Trad Climb Sloth, but move left to join Joie de Vivre after the second bolt.
6	6Slack, 18	18	18m		0
P1 18 18m Trad Climb Sloth, but instead of moving right to the belay, traverse left below the overhangs all the way into the main gully. Or finish up Nag Nag Nag. Climbed as a trad route.
7	7Sluggard, 20	20	18m	2	1.02
P1 20 18m 2 Trad Scramble up to the ledge. Arrange as much protection as you can in the argillite feature right of Sloth. Move up and right to a jug, then back left to better gear before finishing straight up to the Sloth belay.
8	8Te Ika, 16	16	45m		1.02
The seaward arete of the Pinnacle. P1 16 18m Trad Gain the arete using grooves on its north side. Belay either at the large crack or move slightly left to the Sloth double bolt belay. P2 14 27m Trad Continue up the arete to the top of the Pinnacle. The gear is slightly spaced but you can use the Joie de Vivre belay and the top bolt on Black back Cleft as runners.
7a	7aSleuth, 15	15	18m	5	1.02
Lovely climbing following the slanting groove on the right hand side of the face. Previously top-roped as an extension to Roland's problem. Start under the small overhang, up to the large flake then leftwards to the Sloth DB belay P1 15 18m 5

Comments

UUID

7fac705d-1b8b-4939-99f1-dd9d22752504