Head past the Cave and you come to the base of the second access track. Walk on through the rock gateway, and the large rambling buttress straight ahead is The Nose. The main part of the buttress boasts long, atmospheric routes. They share a final double bolt belay, which can also be easily accessed from the top of the Slab.
From late November to March the ledge below the belay is a nesting place for black-backed gulls. They can be quite protective!
Belay anchor was replaced with 110mm titanium glue-in bolts in March 2018.

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1 | Tangled Up In Blue | 14 | 35m |
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Climbs the left side of the buttress. Up the wall and left below the Gobey’s Nose traverse. Climb around a corner and up the loose slab to the top.
Charlie Creese, Simon Robinson, c1980
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2 | Keep It Going | 22 | 35m |
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Scary. Climb Rigid Digit to the pigeon alcove under the roof. Belay here to avoid rope drag (this is the last good pro). Step left around the nose and climb on crumbling holds to a leaning slab/flake. Lunge left across this (crux) and to the top.
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2 | Rigid Digit | 19 | 35m |
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This route tackles the crack that splits the roof. Begin on the steep wall a few metres left of Gobey’s Nose, to a ramp and slab. Climb up to the overlap, then up a crack and slab to the top.
Graeme Dingle, c1970
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3 | Gobey’s Nose | 15 ,13 | 35m |
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The corner in the middle of the main wall, 3m left of a boxthorn bush. Climb the corner past two pitons to ledges and belay off the large blocks.
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4 | Steppenwolf | 15 ,19 | 35m |
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Climb the first pitch of Gobeys Nose.
Charlie Creese, Simon Robinson, c1980
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5 | Krakatoa | 15 ,14 | 35m |
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Climb the first pitch of Gobeys Nose.
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Comments
As a historical note, people
As a historical note, people used to climb The Slab, then a second pitch across the shelf above Diagonal Crack, to access the top pitch on Gobeys Nose.
Gobeys Nose, what a classic!
Gobeys Nose, what a classic! Climbed it for the first time recently, as a single pitch – minimal rope drag if you take a few slings and don't place too many runners...