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  5. Titahi Bay
  6. The Nose

The Nose

(6 routes)

Head past the Cave and you come to the base of the second access track. Walk on through the rock gateway, and the large rambling buttress straight ahead is The Nose. The main part of the buttress boasts long, atmospheric routes. They share a final double bolt belay, which can also be easily accessed from the top of the Slab.
From late November to March the ledge below the belay is a nesting place for black-backed gulls. They can be quite protective!
Belay anchor was replaced with 110mm titanium glue-in bolts in March 2018.

Altitude: 
3m
Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North West
Walk time: 
15 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Tangled Up In Blue 14 35m
0
 wire representing trad
Climbs the left side of the buttress. Up the wall and left below the Gobey’s Nose traverse. Climb around a corner and up the loose slab to the top.
Charlie Creese, Simon Robinson, c1980
2 Keep It Going 22 35m
1.02
 wire representing trad
Scary. Climb Rigid Digit to the pigeon alcove under the roof. Belay here to avoid rope drag (this is the last good pro). Step left around the nose and climb on crumbling holds to a leaning slab/flake. Lunge left across this (crux) and to the top.
2 Rigid Digit 19 35m
1.02
 wire representing trad
This route tackles the crack that splits the roof. Begin on the steep wall a few metres left of Gobey’s Nose, to a ramp and slab. Climb up to the overlap, then up a crack and slab to the top.
Graeme Dingle, c1970
3 Gobey’s Nose 15 ,13 35m
1.02
 wire representing trad
The corner in the middle of the main wall, 3m left of a boxthorn bush. Climb the corner past two pitons to ledges and belay off the large blocks.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11510mYes
 

The corner in the middle of the main wall, 3m left of a boxthorn bush. Climb the corner past two pitons to ledges and belay off the large blocks.
21325mYes
 

Traverse left to the crack that splits the roof. Climb up to the crack, then move left around the ‘nose’ to a new crack. Climb this past a big flake and up to the slab above.
4 Steppenwolf 15 ,19 35m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb the first pitch of Gobeys Nose.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11510mYes
 

Climb the first pitch of Gobeys Nose.
21925mYes
 

Climb the arete straight above the belay.
Charlie Creese, Simon Robinson, c1980
5 Krakatoa 15 ,14 35m
0
 wire representing trad
Climb the first pitch of Gobeys Nose.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11510mYes
 

Climb the first pitch of Gobeys Nose.
21425mYes
 

Up the gully on the right. The biggest danger on this route may not necessarily be from falling rock, but falling sheep! Be aware and ready to defend yourself.

This place appears in

UUID: 
f28f58a9-23eb-4fae-81d6-da754b7d5304

Comments

Submitted by Richard Thomson on Thu, 01/09/2011 - 17:11

As a historical note, people used to climb The Slab, then a second pitch across the shelf above Diagonal Crack, to access the top pitch on Gobeys Nose.

Submitted by Richard Thomson on Thu, 01/09/2011 - 16:58

Gobeys Nose, what a classic! Climbed it for the first time recently, as a single pitch – minimal rope drag if you take a few slings and don't place too many runners...