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The Nose

Type
Altitude
3m
Part of

Head past the Cave and you come to the base of the second access track. Walk on through the rock gateway, and the large rambling buttress straight ahead is The Nose. The main part of the buttress boasts long, atmospheric routes. They share a final double bolt belay, which can also be easily accessed from the top of the Slab.
From late November to March the ledge below the belay is a nesting place for black-backed gulls. They can be quite protective!
Belay anchor was replaced with 110mm titanium glue-in bolts in March 2018.

Image
Walktime
15 min
Aspect
North West
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 1Tangled Up In Blue, 14 14 35m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 35m
  • Trad

Climbs the left side of the buttress. Up the wall and left below the Gobey’s Nose traverse. Climb around a corner and up the loose slab to the top.


2 2Keep It Going, 22 22 35m
1.02

  • P1
  • 22
  • 35m
  • Trad

Scary. Climb Rigid Digit to the pigeon alcove under the roof. Belay here to avoid rope drag (this is the last good pro). Step left around the nose and climb on crumbling holds to a leaning slab/flake. Lunge left across this (crux) and to the top.


2 2Rigid Digit, 19 19 35m
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 35m
  • Trad

This route tackles the crack that splits the roof. Begin on the steep wall a few metres left of Gobey’s Nose, to a ramp and slab. Climb up to the overlap, then up a crack and slab to the top.


3 3Gobey’s Nose, 15 15 35m
1.02

  • P1
  • 15
  • 10m
  • Trad

The corner in the middle of the main wall, 3m left of a boxthorn bush. Climb the corner past two pitons to ledges and belay off the large blocks.


  • P2
  • 13
  • 25m
  • Trad

Traverse left to the crack that splits the roof. Climb up to the crack, then move left around the ‘nose’ to a new crack. Climb this past a big flake and up to the slab above.


4 4Steppenwolf, 19 19 35m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 10m
  • Trad

Climb the first pitch of Gobeys Nose.


  • P2
  • 19
  • 25m
  • Trad

Climb the arete straight above the belay.


5 5Krakatoa, 15 15 35m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 10m
  • Trad

Climb the first pitch of Gobeys Nose.


  • P2
  • 14
  • 25m
  • Trad

Up the gully on the right. The biggest danger on this route may not necessarily be from falling rock, but falling sheep! Be aware and ready to defend yourself.


Comments
Richard Thomson

As a historical note, people used to climb The Slab, then a second pitch across the shelf above Diagonal Crack, to access the top pitch on Gobeys Nose.

Thu, 01/09/2011 - 17:11 Permalink
Richard Thomson

Gobeys Nose, what a classic! Climbed it for the first time recently, as a single pitch – minimal rope drag if you take a few slings and don't place too many runners...

Thu, 01/09/2011 - 16:58 Permalink
UUID
 
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