This area is one bay south of the Baby’s Bottom Cliff. Plesae be careful of the loose rock above the Gallery.
Some reasonable bouldering can be found in the cave, and also traversing the Hobbits Enigma wall.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
West
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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| 1 | My Mate Dave | 20 | 10m |
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Climb the sweet looking buttress on the left side of the cave. Double bolt belay.
Jon Rosemergy, 2005
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| 2 | Nazguls Riding Unicorns | 16 | 10m |
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A short, well protected climb taking the crack system directly up to the DBA of 'My Mate Dave'. Positive holds.
Morgan Plain, 22 March 2014
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| 3 | Gandalf’s Corner | 17 | 12m |
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The corner on the left side of the Gallery is a good looking line. Climb a crack to the ledge and the poorly protected corner above. Double bolt belay.
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| 4 | Gollum Crack | 17 | 17m |
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The corner on the right side of the Gallery is strenuous and technical, but good protection can be arranged in the crack. At the remains of an old peg, move into the right-hand groove with difficulty and continue up and right to the double bolt belay.
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| 5 | Satisfaction | 22 | 16m |
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Stick clip the first bolt, then pull on the large box-like hold and crank up water-worn pods. Itʻs 23 if you stay left of the bolts. Bouldery moves on good quality rock. Double bolt belay.
Kristen Foley, 2005
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| 6 | Hobbit’s Enigma | 17 | 17m |
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Strenuous but well protected climbing: pull over the first overhang and into a crack, which continues to the top and a double bolt belay.
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| 7 | Hobbit’s Wall | 11 | 17m |
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This climb is on the right-hand arete. Climb the wall on good holds to ledges, the continue up to the double bolt belay.
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| 8 | Hobbit’s Lair | V5 |
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The cave to the right of the other routes has some bouldering potential. Charlie Creese may have climbed the problem coming out of the middle of the cave in the early 1980s.
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| 9 | Canrejo | V6 |
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Crab like, roof traverse of the
cave roof. Sit start left hand side, pull up to roof
then, hand slaps and heel hooks until you reach
the other side, cut loose and swing round to
seaward face, use big handholds and pull up on
top of roof (need a good spotter here). Descent
left hand side.
Adam Power
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