The Cave

(9 routes)

This area is one bay south of the Baby’s Bottom Cliff. Plesae be careful of the loose rock above the Gallery.
Some reasonable bouldering can be found in the cave, and also traversing the Hobbits Enigma wall.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 My Mate Dave 20 10m
Climb the sweet looking buttress on the left side of the cave. Double bolt belay.
Jon Rosemergy, 2005
2 Nazguls Riding Unicorns 16 10m
wire representing trad 2
A short, well protected climb taking the crack system directly up to the DBA of 'My Mate Dave'. Positive holds.
Morgan Plain, 22 March 2014
3 Gandalf’s Corner 17 12m
wire representing trad
The corner on the left side of the Gallery is a good looking line. Climb a crack to the ledge and the poorly protected corner above. Double bolt belay.
4 Gollum Crack 17 17m
wire representing trad
The corner on the right side of the Gallery is strenuous and technical, but good protection can be arranged in the crack. At the remains of an old peg, move into the right-hand groove with difficulty and continue up and right to the double bolt belay.
5 Satisfaction 22 16m
Stick clip the first bolt, then pull on the large box-like hold and crank up water-worn pods. Itʻs 23 if you stay left of the bolts. Bouldery moves on good quality rock. Double bolt belay.
Kristen Foley, 2005
6 Hobbit’s Enigma 17 17m
wire representing trad
Strenuous but well protected climbing: pull over the first overhang and into a crack, which continues to the top and a double bolt belay.
7 Hobbit’s Wall 11 17m
wire representing trad
This climb is on the right-hand arete. Climb the wall on good holds to ledges, the continue up to the double bolt belay.
8 Hobbit’s Lair V5
The cave to the right of the other routes has some bouldering potential. Charlie Creese may have climbed the problem coming out of the middle of the cave in the early 1980s.
9 Canrejo V6
Crab like, roof traverse of the cave roof. Sit start left hand side, pull up to roof then, hand slaps and heel hooks until you reach the other side, cut loose and swing round to seaward face, use big handholds and pull up on top of roof (need a good spotter here). Descent left hand side.
Adam Power

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