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The Cave

Type
Part of

This area is one bay south of the Baby’s Bottom Cliff. Plesae be careful of the loose rock above the Gallery.
Some reasonable bouldering can be found in the cave, and also traversing the Hobbits Enigma wall.

Image
Aspect
West
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 1My Mate Dave, 20 20 10m 2
0

  • P1
  • 20
  • 10m
  • 2

Climb the sweet looking buttress on the left side of the cave. Double bolt belay.


2 2Nazguls Riding Unicorns, 16 16 10m
2.01

  • P1
  • 16
  • 10m
  • Trad

A short, well protected climb taking the crack system directly up to the DBA of 'My Mate Dave'. Positive holds.


3 3Gandalf’s Corner, 17 17 12m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 12m
  • Trad

The corner on the left side of the Gallery is a good looking line. Climb a crack to the ledge and the poorly protected corner above. Double bolt belay.


4 4Gollum Crack, 17 17 17m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 17m
  • Trad

The corner on the right side of the Gallery is strenuous and technical, but good protection can be arranged in the crack. At the remains of an old peg, move into the right-hand groove with difficulty and continue up and right to the double bolt belay.


5 5Satisfaction, 22 22 16m 2
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 16m
  • 2

Stick clip the first bolt, then pull on the large box-like hold and crank up water-worn pods. Itʻs 23 if you stay left of the bolts. Bouldery moves on good quality rock. Double bolt belay.


6 6Hobbit’s Enigma, 17 17 17m
1.02

  • P1
  • 17
  • 17m
  • Trad

Strenuous but well protected climbing: pull over the first overhang and into a crack, which continues to the top and a double bolt belay.


7 7Hobbit’s Wall, 11 11 17m
0

  • P1
  • 11
  • 17m
  • Trad

This climb is on the right-hand arete. Climb the wall on good holds to ledges, the continue up to the double bolt belay.


8 8Hobbit’s Lair, V5 V5
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V5

The cave to the right of the other routes has some bouldering potential. Charlie Creese may have climbed the problem coming out of the middle of the cave in the early 1980s.


9 9Canrejo, V6 V6
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V6

Crab like, roof traverse of the cave roof. Sit start left hand side, pull up to roof then, hand slaps and heel hooks until you reach the other side, cut loose and swing round to seaward face, use big handholds and pull up on top of roof (need a good spotter here). Descent left hand side.


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