Lava Torri Wall

Loose but interesting. Below and right of the big roof. Climb the wall beneath the overhangs to just below some loose rock, then traverse right to a double bolt belay.

The left-hand arête of the main wall. Climb the ramps and face to the double bolt belay. The route originally continued up the loose chimney.

The diagonal crack and groove. A little loose in places. Double bolt belay (as for Cistern).

The main groove in the middle of the wall. Start beside the cave and climb the groove to the double bolt belay.

A worthwhile alternative start to Flash In The Pan. Start just right of Transition beneath the wide, right to left slanting break. Pull up into the break, good large cams if needed, and climb direct up the crinkly wall clipping 2BRs. Move left to a third BR and then onto the ledge system that FITP traverses. Finish direct as for FITP past two more BRs.

The previously top-roped wall between Transition and Dysentery Groove is now an enjoyable sport route. Start at the niche a few metres left of DG and follow the diagonal line to finish up the pillar between the top of Transition and DG. Double bolt belay as for DG.The runout section between the 3rd and 4th bolts is where the easy part of the High Street girdle traverse crosses and there is natural gear available if required. At the ledge above the third bolt you can place large cams in Dysentery Groove (extend with very long slings) and/or a large nut or small cam 2m below the fourth bolt.

The long groove on the very right of the main wall. Climb to the ledge at half height then up a small slab to the top corner (crux) and good gear. Then up to a double bolt belay. The gear in the lower half of the route is fiddly and not as good as it may look. A classic of its time

Start up Dysentery Groove, then climb straight up to the top of High Street’s first slab and follow the crack left. At the loose blocks, move up and on to the arete. Up this past two bolts to a double bolt belay.

A superb outing! This is the large slab above and right of Dysentery Groove the runs to the top of the cliff. Start either up the small slab to the left, then back along small ledges to the main slab, or climb a small steep corner in to the bottom of the slab. Good protection, double bolt belay.

Start up the First Ugly Sister. Go past the start of The Gibbet to a slight groove. Using good edges, step across the groove and climb the beautiful orange wall past a loose block. Trend left at the top. Feel free to bolt this route.

From a small cave a third of the way up the First Ugly Sister, climb the thin crack to a groove and rivets. Hook left and up to a small roof, passing this on the right, then up to a ledge and crack. Belay over the lip at a double bolt belay. Gear needed includes pins, hooks, wires, cams, RP hangers and a few copperheads. The rivets were placed to hold body weight only; on a repeat ascent Jon Rosemergy straightened a fifi hook and hit the deck from 20 metres up – and survived!

Start up Cinderella but quickly move left into a diagonal seam. Up this (rather loose) to a fixed copperhead and then some free moves to the belay. Small pins, hooks, copperheads and sawn-off angles were found to be useful on the first ascent.

This gem of a climb follows a thin seam. A few small wires tolerably protect the wall to a ring-bolt at half height. Hang on to place wires and/or small cams on the steepening wall above.

Good holds lead to a bolt, then head up and right to a crack (small cams). Now pause to think about what to do next: the second bolt is a reachy clip from unobvious holds, followed by a technical and pumpy finish.

Climb the crack on the prow of the buttress, protectable with good wires, to a bolt. A reachy crux follows, then trend right on to the slab and up to the belay. (Has been aided at A2.)

Climb blocky ground to finish up the Second Ugly Sister slab.

This will test your stamina. The low traverse of the whole wall is usually done left to right. The crux comes after Transition, as you climb over the top of the cave and along some small flakes.

Shag Rock is the large pinnacle between Lava Torri Wall and the sea. Baby Shag Rock is the triangular rock below Shag Rock and opposite the First Ugly Sister. A popular, moderate and polished boulder problem.

Climbs the seaward leg of the natural arch approximately 25m right of the Lava Torri wall. Lowish tide and morning sun desirable. From the boulder choke follow the obvious crackline up and rightwards to the arete-good natural gear. Up to the sloping ledge BR. Clip the second BR, then steep moves lead to the top(2BB).