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Lava Torri Wall

Type
Part of

The great orange-coloured wall south of the Pinnacle is still a quite intimidating venue. There are several good easy to moderate routes here, and if dodgy runners don't appeal top-ropes can be set up by scrambling around the scree slopes south of the Second Ugly Sister. A few bolts protect the traverse above the main wall. Be careful between late November and March, as these slopes are a major nesting site for black-backed gulls.

Image
Aspect
North West
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 1Dolly Varden, 14 14 30m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 30m
  • Trad

Loose but interesting. Below and right of the big roof. Climb the wall beneath the overhangs to just below some loose rock, then traverse right to a double bolt belay.


2 2Cistern, 15 15 20m
0

  • P1
  • 15
  • 20m
  • Trad

The left-hand arête of the main wall. Climb the ramps and face to the double bolt belay. The route originally continued up the loose chimney.


3 3Transmission, 19 19 19m
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 19m
  • Trad

The diagonal crack and groove. A little loose in places. Double bolt belay (as for Cistern).


4 4Transition, 17 17 19m
0

  • P1
  • 17
  • 19m
  • Trad

The main groove in the middle of the wall. Start beside the cave and climb the groove to the double bolt belay.


5 5Strait Flush, 20 20 22m 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 22m
  • 5

A worthwhile alternative start to Flash In The Pan. Start just right of Transition beneath the wide, right to left slanting break. Pull up into the break, good large cams if needed, and climb direct up the crinkly wall clipping 2BRs. Move left to a third BR and then onto the ledge system that FITP traverses. Finish direct as for FITP past two more BRs.


6 6Flash In The Pan, 19 19 22m 5
1.02

  • P1
  • 19
  • 22m
  • 5

The previously top-roped wall between Transition and Dysentery Groove is now an enjoyable sport route. Start at the niche a few metres left of DG and follow the diagonal line to finish up the pillar between the top of Transition and DG. Double bolt belay as for DG.The runout section between the 3rd and 4th bolts is where the easy part of the High Street girdle traverse crosses and there is natural gear available if required. At the ledge above the third bolt you can place large cams in Dysentery Groove (extend with very long slings) and/or a large nut or small cam 2m below the fourth bolt.


7 7Dysentery Groove, 17 17 25m
2.01

  • P1
  • 17
  • 25m
  • Trad

The long groove on the very right of the main wall. Climb to the ledge at half height then up a small slab to the top corner (crux) and good gear. Then up to a double bolt belay. The gear in the lower half of the route is fiddly and not as good as it may look. A classic of its time


8 8Lavarette, 16 16 25m 2
0

  • P1
  • 16
  • 25m
  • 2
  • Trad

Start up Dysentery Groove, then climb straight up to the top of High Street’s first slab and follow the crack left. At the loose blocks, move up and on to the arete. Up this past two bolts to a double bolt belay.


8 8First Ugly Sister, 12 12 20m
2.01

  • P1
  • 12
  • 20m
  • Trad

A superb outing! This is the large slab above and right of Dysentery Groove the runs to the top of the cliff. Start either up the small slab to the left, then back along small ledges to the main slab, or climb a small steep corner in to the bottom of the slab. Good protection, double bolt belay.


9 9Lifestyle Bloc, 18 18 18m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • 18m
  • Trad

Start up the First Ugly Sister. Go past the start of The Gibbet to a slight groove. Using good edges, step across the groove and climb the beautiful orange wall past a loose block. Trend left at the top. Feel free to bolt this route.


9 9The Gibbet, 18,A3 18,A3 18m
1.02

  • P1
  • 18
  • Aid A3
  • 18m
  • Trad

From a small cave a third of the way up the First Ugly Sister, climb the thin crack to a groove and rivets. Hook left and up to a small roof, passing this on the right, then up to a ledge and crack. Belay over the lip at a double bolt belay. Gear needed includes pins, hooks, wires, cams, RP hangers and a few copperheads. The rivets were placed to hold body weight only; on a repeat ascent Jon Rosemergy straightened a fifi hook and hit the deck from 20 metres up – and survived!


10 10Screaming Savage Blood Death, 18,A2 18,A2 15m
0

  • P1
  • 18
  • Aid A2
  • 15m
  • Trad

Start up Cinderella but quickly move left into a diagonal seam. Up this (rather loose) to a fixed copperhead and then some free moves to the belay. Small pins, hooks, copperheads and sawn-off angles were found to be useful on the first ascent.


11 11Cinderella, 20 20 15m 1
1.02

  • P1
  • 20
  • 15m
  • 1
  • Trad

This gem of a climb follows a thin seam. A few small wires tolerably protect the wall to a ring-bolt at half height. Hang on to place wires and/or small cams on the steepening wall above.


12 12Some Kind of Fat-sucking Vampire, 22 22 15m 2
0

  • P1
  • 22
  • 15m
  • 2
  • Trad

Good holds lead to a bolt, then head up and right to a crack (small cams). Now pause to think about what to do next: the second bolt is a reachy clip from unobvious holds, followed by a technical and pumpy finish.


13 13The Prow, 19 19 15m 1
0

  • P1
  • 19
  • 15m
  • 1
  • Trad

Climb the crack on the prow of the buttress, protectable with good wires, to a bolt. A reachy crux follows, then trend right on to the slab and up to the belay. (Has been aided at A2.)


14 14Burnt by the Sun, 14 14 16m
0

  • P1
  • 14
  • 16m
  • Trad

Climb blocky ground to finish up the Second Ugly Sister slab.


15 15Second Ugly Sister, 13 13 45m
1.02

  • P1
  • 11
  • 18m
  • Trad

Scamper up the slab to a double bolt belay.


  • P2
  • 13
  • 27m
  • Trad

Climb the crack to the top of the wall and another double bolt belay.


 High Street, 19,A0 19,A0 90m
1.02

This route traverses the whole wall at about mid height.


  • P1
  • 19
  • 35m
  • Trad

Start at the small slab just right of Dysentery Groove. Climb this for 5–6 metres, then step around into Dysentery Groove. Climb this past an old peg, then traverse left across a narrow ledge and climb the top half of Transition to the belay.


  • P2
  • Aid A0
  • 9m
  • Trad

Abseil straight down the wall to where it is possible to make a belay.


  • P3
  • 15m
  • Trad

Climb slightly ascending line, traversing across the wall to just above the crux of Cistern. Step around the arete, then down a little to a belay stance.


  • P4
  • 31m
  • Trad

Cross the wall until you have passed Dolly Varden. Climb a metre, then traverse left again under the big roof and down a corner. Now you deserve a beer!


 Low Street, V2 V2
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V2

This will test your stamina. The low traverse of the whole wall is usually done left to right. The crux comes after Transition, as you climb over the top of the cave and along some small flakes.


 Baby Shag Rock, VM VM
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco VM

Shag Rock is the large pinnacle between Lava Torri Wall and the sea. Baby Shag Rock is the triangular rock below Shag Rock and opposite the First Ugly Sister. A popular, moderate and polished boulder problem.


 Arch Anemone, 21 21 15m 2
1.02

  • P1
  • 21
  • 15m
  • 2
  • Trad

Climbs the seaward leg of the natural arch approximately 25m right of the Lava Torri wall. Lowish tide and morning sun desirable. From the boulder choke follow the obvious crackline up and rightwards to the arete-good natural gear. Up to the sloping ledge BR. Clip the second BR, then steep moves lead to the top(2BB).


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