Baby's Bottom Cliff

(13 routes)

This cliff is clearly identifiable as you descend the first access track. All routes that finish at the top of the crag share a common descent down the gully on the left of the cliff. There is a double bolt and chain anchor at the top of the gully.

Type: 
Wall
Aspect: 
North
Walk time: 
10 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Zero Edge 11 ,11 25m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the face and arete to a good belay ledge.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11112mYes
 

Climb the face and arete to a good belay ledge.

21113mYes
 

Continue straight up until it is possible to move left into the loose chimney. Scramble to the arete.

2 The Sewer 12 ,16 25m
0
wire representing trad
An interesting and varied climb.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11212mYes
 

Climb the V-shaped groove to the bolt belay at the apex.

21613mYes
 

The narrow bottomless chimney. Climb the this until it is possible to exit left (crux). Finish up easier but loose ground.

3 The Baby's Bottom 18 12m
2.01
wire representing trad
A nasty rash is a risk if you fall off. Climb direct to the base of the chimney and a double bolt belay. The rock is good but gear is minimal to non-existent.
4 Sewer Variant 13 14m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the right side of the slab into the left-facing corner, then up to the double bolt belay, all on generally good rock. Committing to start but then well protected.
5 Cream 19 25m
1.02
wire representing trad
What goes on top of the baby's bottom? This classy line is best climbed as a single long pitch beginning up Sewer Variant. Good runners at the base of the hanging corner protect a distinct crux.
Charlie Creese, Simon Robinson, 1980s
6 A Real Knee Knocker 17 20m
1.02
1bolts wire representing trad
Up Sewer Variant and through the overhang past a ring bolt. Now climb straight up the crack above.
Shake 15 22m
0
1bolts wire representing trad
Up Sewer Variant and through the overhang past a ring bolt. Now move right into the groove, past a flax bush, up to a small ledge and then left into another crack. Some loose rock on the upper wall.
7 Diagonal Wall Direct 14 14m
0
wire representing trad
Climb the base of the left-facing corner and traverse to reach the higher of the two big diagonal cracks on the wall.
8 Diagonal Wall 12 ,12 28m
0
wire representing trad
A steep climb on good holds with a strenuous start.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11214mYes
 

Start in the right-hand corner of the slab. Climb up and left for a few metres, then head right around the corner to gain the lower groove, tending right to the belay ledge.

21214mYes
 

Just left of the belay is a groove: follow this to the top.

9 Rasp 16 24m
0
wire representing trad
“A strenuous start to make the jamming scars on the back of your hands itch” – Graeme Dingle, 1970. Launch straight over the bulge and directly up the wall, crossing the two grooves.
10 Diagonal Wall Variant Start 13 14m
0
wire representing trad
Start in the alcove at the lower right end of the cliff. Up the corner and around to join Diagonal Wall.
11 Jug Arete 11 ,11 28m
0
wire representing trad
Climb rightwards out of the alcove and up the arete on good rock to the Diagonal Wall belay.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11115mYes
 

Climb rightwards out of the alcove and up the arete on good rock to the Diagonal Wall belay.

21113mYes
 

Keep on up the arete.

Nymph Girdle 12 ,14 36m
0
wire representing trad
An up-and-down adventure, traversing the entire wall.
#EwbankAlpine (Technical)Alpine (Commitment)Alpine (Mt Cook)AidWater IceMixedBoulder (Hueco)LengthBoltsTrad
11212mYes
 

Climb the first pitch of The Sewer.

21424mYes
 

Descend Sewer Variant to Diagonal Wall Direct. Follow this onto the wall and traverse to Diagonal Wall, then climb down and across to finish down Diagonal Wall Variant Start.

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UUID: 
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