Baby's Bottom Cliff

Type

Part of

This cliff is clearly identifiable as you descend the first access track. All routes that finish at the top of the crag share a common descent down the gully on the left of the cliff. There is a double bolt and chain anchor at the top of the gully.

Walktime

10 min

Aspect

North

Add Place Add Route

Routes

Reference	Title	Grade	Length	Pro	Quality
1	1Zero Edge, 11	11	25m		0
P1 11 12m Trad Climb the face and arete to a good belay ledge. P2 11 13m Trad Continue straight up until it is possible to move left into the loose chimney. Scramble to the arete.
2	2The Sewer, 16	16	25m		0
An interesting and varied climb. P1 12 12m Trad Climb the V-shaped groove to the bolt belay at the apex. P2 16 13m Trad The narrow bottomless chimney. Climb the this until it is possible to exit left (crux). Finish up easier but loose ground.
3	3The Baby's Bottom, 18	18	12m		2.01
A nasty rash is a risk if you fall off. Climb direct to the base of the chimney and a double bolt belay. The rock is good but gear is minimal to non-existent. P1 18 12m Trad
4	4Sewer Variant, 13	13	14m		0
Climb the right side of the slab into the left-facing corner, then up to the double bolt belay, all on generally good rock. Committing to start but then well protected. P1 13 14m Trad
5	5Cream, 19	19	25m		1.02
What goes on top of the baby's bottom? This classy line is best climbed as a single long pitch beginning up Sewer Variant. Good runners at the base of the hanging corner protect a distinct crux. P1 19 25m Trad
6	6A Real Knee Knocker, 17	17	20m	1	1.02
Up Sewer Variant and through the overhang past a ring bolt. Now climb straight up the crack above. ROCKFALL: As of Jan 2021 a very large section has fallen off just above the ring bolt. This climb will be badly affected. P1 17 20m 1 Trad
	Shake, 15	15	22m	1	0
Up Sewer Variant and through the overhang past a ring bolt. Now move right into the groove, past a flax bush, up to a small ledge and then left into another crack. Some loose rock on the upper wall. ROCKFALL: As of Jan 2021 a very large section has fallen off just above the ring bolt. This climb will be affected. P1 15 22m 1 Trad
7	7Diagonal Wall Direct, 14	14	14m		0
Climb the base of the left-facing corner and traverse to reach the higher of the two big diagonal cracks on the wall. P1 14 14m Trad
8	8Diagonal Wall, 12	12	28m		0
A steep climb on good holds with a strenuous start. P1 12 14m Trad Start in the right-hand corner of the slab. Climb up and left for a few metres, then head right around the corner to gain the lower groove, tending right to the belay ledge. P2 12 14m Trad Just left of the belay is a groove: follow this to the top.
9	9Rasp, 16	16	24m		0
P1 16 24m Trad “A strenuous start to make the jamming scars on the back of your hands itch” – Graeme Dingle, 1970. Launch straight over the bulge and directly up the wall, crossing the two grooves.
10	10Diagonal Wall Variant Start, 13	13	14m		0
P1 13 14m Trad Start in the alcove at the lower right end of the cliff. Up the corner and around to join Diagonal Wall.
11	11Jug Arete, 11	11	28m		0
P1 11 15m Trad Climb rightwards out of the alcove and up the arete on good rock to the Diagonal Wall belay. P2 11 13m Trad Keep on up the arete.
	Nymph Girdle, 14	14	36m		0
An up-and-down adventure, traversing the entire wall. P1 12 12m Trad Climb the first pitch of The Sewer. P2 14 24m Trad Descend Sewer Variant to Diagonal Wall Direct. Follow this onto the wall and traverse to Diagonal Wall, then climb down and across to finish down Diagonal Wall Variant Start.

Comments

UUID

d23c3aa0-a497-4d1b-a0f3-087ee4212062