Baby's Bottom Cliff

This cliff is clearly identifiable as you descend the first access track. All routes that finish at the top of the crag share a common descent down the gully on the left of the cliff. There is a double bolt and chain anchor at the top of the gully.

Type:

Wall

Aspect:

North

Walk time:

10 min

Baby's Bottom Cliff, Titahi Bay. Photo: Kristen Foley

Reference

Title

Grade

Length

Quality

Bolts

Gone

Natural pro

Link to edit content

Zero Edge

11 ,11

25m

Climb the face and arete to a good belay ledge.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	11	12m	Yes
	Climb the face and arete to a good belay ledge.
2	11	13m	Yes
	Continue straight up until it is possible to move left into the loose chimney. Scramble to the arete.

The Sewer

12 ,16

25m

An interesting and varied climb.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	12	12m	Yes
	Climb the V-shaped groove to the bolt belay at the apex.
2	16	13m	Yes
	The narrow bottomless chimney. Climb the this until it is possible to exit left (crux). Finish up easier but loose ground.

The Baby's Bottom

12m

A nasty rash is a risk if you fall off. Climb direct to the base of the chimney and a double bolt belay. The rock is good but gear is minimal to non-existent.

Sewer Variant

14m

Climb the right side of the slab into the left-facing corner, then up to the double bolt belay, all on generally good rock. Committing to start but then well protected.

Cream

25m

What goes on top of the baby's bottom? This classy line is best climbed as a single long pitch beginning up Sewer Variant. Good runners at the base of the hanging corner protect a distinct crux.

Charlie Creese, Simon Robinson, 1980s

A Real Knee Knocker

20m

Up Sewer Variant and through the overhang past a ring bolt. Now climb straight up the crack above. ROCKFALL: As of Jan 2021 a very large section has fallen off just above the ring bolt. This climb will be badly affected.

Shake

22m

Up Sewer Variant and through the overhang past a ring bolt. Now move right into the groove, past a flax bush, up to a small ledge and then left into another crack. Some loose rock on the upper wall. ROCKFALL: As of Jan 2021 a very large section has fallen off just above the ring bolt. This climb will be affected.

Diagonal Wall Direct

14m

Climb the base of the left-facing corner and traverse to reach the higher of the two big diagonal cracks on the wall.

Diagonal Wall

12 ,12

28m

A steep climb on good holds with a strenuous start.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	12	14m	Yes
	Start in the right-hand corner of the slab. Climb up and left for a few metres, then head right around the corner to gain the lower groove, tending right to the belay ledge.
2	12	14m	Yes
	Just left of the belay is a groove: follow this to the top.

Rasp

24m

“A strenuous start to make the jamming scars on the back of your hands itch” – Graeme Dingle, 1970. Launch straight over the bulge and directly up the wall, crossing the two grooves.

Diagonal Wall Variant Start

14m

Start in the alcove at the lower right end of the cliff. Up the corner and around to join Diagonal Wall.

Jug Arete

11 ,11

28m

Climb rightwards out of the alcove and up the arete on good rock to the Diagonal Wall belay.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	11	15m	Yes
	Climb rightwards out of the alcove and up the arete on good rock to the Diagonal Wall belay.
2	11	13m	Yes
	Keep on up the arete.

Nymph Girdle

12 ,14

36m

An up-and-down adventure, traversing the entire wall.

#	Ewbank	Length	Trad
1	12	12m	Yes
	Climb the first pitch of The Sewer.
2	14	24m	Yes
	Descend Sewer Variant to Diagonal Wall Direct. Follow this onto the wall and traverse to Diagonal Wall, then climb down and across to finish down Diagonal Wall Variant Start.

This place appears in

Wellington Rock

2004

UUID:

d23c3aa0-a497-4d1b-a0f3-087ee4212062

(13 routes)

This place appears in