Fly Rock

(10 routes)

It doesn't look much from the carpark but Fly Rock offers some good challenges. It's the big rock on the beach at the far end of the first bay west of the carpark.

Walk time: 
10 min
Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Link to edit content
1 Unnamed V0
Good edges up the grey wall.
2 Low Fly V6
This bum scraper starts on low edges on the right side of the boulder. Traverse left on slopey holds to the low jugs on the arete (cruxy if you’re tall). Slap up and left to the sloping ledge and traverse the east face on good holds. Now drop down around the corner and finish by stepping left onto the large ramp.
3 High Fly V4
Start on chest-height edges and traverse left to the arete. Slap around to the sloping ledge, pull up and left to the big pocket and finish straight up.
4 Unnamed VM
Swing up the flake.
5 Unnamed V1
A spicy eliminate climbs the groove just left of the big flake, to a slippery mantle. Avoid the flake and the arete.
6 Flying Arete V3
Sit start and climb the cracking arete.
7 Super Fly V7
A hard one-and-a-half-move wonder. Start low in the middle of the overhanging prow. Pull on using two poor pinches and slap for the slopey ledge. Finish straight up avoiding either arete.
8 Blow Fly V3
Sit start under the left arete, to reach good holds, then traverse right along the sloping ledge and finish up Flying Arete. A V2 variant climbs directly up the left arete.
9 Sand Fly V5
An eliminate: start up Blow Fly but take the small sharp crimp left of the arete with your left hand, cross up to a small gaston, then crank all the way to the white jug. Holds on the arete and the ramp down low are out – climb it that way at around V1.
10 Fly-Buys V3
Traverse left to right, reversing the last part of Low Fly and the first part of High Fly. Crux is turning on to the final face.