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Fly Rock

Type
Part of

It doesn't look much from the carpark but Fly Rock offers some good challenges. It's the big rock on the beach at the far end of the first bay west of the carpark.

Walktime
10 min
Aspect
East
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Routes

Reference Title Grade Length Pro Quality Operations
1 1Unnamed, V0 V0
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V0

Good edges up the grey wall.


2 2Low Fly, V6 V6
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V6

This bum scraper starts on low edges on the right side of the boulder. Traverse left on slopey holds to the low jugs on the arete (cruxy if you’re tall). Slap up and left to the sloping ledge and traverse the east face on good holds. Now drop down around the corner and finish by stepping left onto the large ramp.


3 3High Fly, V4 V4
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V4

Start on chest-height edges and traverse left to the arete. Slap around to the sloping ledge, pull up and left to the big pocket and finish straight up.


4 4Unnamed, VM VM
0

  • P1
  • Hueco VM

Swing up the flake.


5 5Unnamed, V1 V1
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V1

A spicy eliminate climbs the groove just left of the big flake, to a slippery mantle. Avoid the flake and the arete.


6 6Flying Arete, V3 V3
2.01

  • P1
  • Hueco V3

Sit start and climb the cracking arete.


7 7Super Fly, V7 V7
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V7

A hard one-and-a-half-move wonder. Start low in the middle of the overhanging prow. Pull on using two poor pinches and slap for the slopey ledge. Finish straight up avoiding either arete.


8 8Blow Fly, V3 V3
1.02

  • P1
  • Hueco V3

Sit start under the left arete, to reach good holds, then traverse right along the sloping ledge and finish up Flying Arete. A V2 variant climbs directly up the left arete.


9 9Sand Fly, V5 V5
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V5

An eliminate: start up Blow Fly but take the small sharp crimp left of the arete with your left hand, cross up to a small gaston, then crank all the way to the white jug. Holds on the arete and the ramp down low are out – climb it that way at around V1.


10 10Fly-Buys, V3 V3
0

  • P1
  • Hueco V3

Traverse left to right, reversing the last part of Low Fly and the first part of High Fly. Crux is turning on to the final face.


Comments
UUID
 
9522461a-2cf2-4236-9c9c-3368055cede7