The Arch

The hardest problem on the archway. Standing start in the ‘fireplace’ on two positive pockets. Reach with the right hand out to the obvious chicken-head crimper, move up and left into a hanging undercut then explode rightwards to the finishing hold—a large spike! Lots of intermediate holds but they’re all crap. Feet anywhere you can get them (a crafty toe hook makes the second move easier).

Start as for Firestarter but move immediately right under the bulge on bad holds to join Green Peppers at the huge jug. Finish up this. An eliminate finish is possible staying left of the obvious seam and finishing on the spike (V9).

A sweet problem spoilt slightly by some poor rock. Start crouching at the back wall just right of Firestarter on a good sidepull. Reach back right for a slopey pinch, snatch left hand into the obvious undercut then bounce right hand up to another bad pinch. Jam the left foot in the hole by the starting holds and crank up to a huge jug. Follow holds in the seam and the pockets out right to finish on the last solid jug.

An extended start to Green Peppers. Start sitting on the small arête on the other (north-west) side of the arch. Traverse through the hole on a line of good pinches and slopers. Drop down into the undercut on Green Peppers and finish up this.

Sit start on the blunt arête at the corner of the arch. Follow a line of strange slopey holds straight up to the slanting two-handed finger jug on Ah Chillies (but be careful not to wander too far up or right onto this problem). From the jug make a long crank left to the big rounded dish, get your feet high, match hands and then cross up to the finishing hold of Green Peppers – or go further left to the spike.

A classic V3 boulder problem that is now a classic route. Monkey up the vague pillar on good sidepulls and underclings to the large V-groove. Drop off here or commit to the mossy topout. Two ring bolts and belay bolts or two bouldering mats – it’s your choice.

Start up Ah Chillies, but move right on good undercuts and make a long move to the obvious triangular jug. Top out or drop off.

Move even further right to finish by sidepulling the large mossy block.

Retro-climbed, retro-named, retro-graded. Probably an old problem of Dave Orsman’s called Sophie’s Choice, now climbed on a new set of holds. Sit start on the large jug, reach with the left hand to a good spikey crimp, move right to the square pinch, lock your shoulder and grab the obvious sloper with your left hand. Now dyno to the flexing block — intermediate holds make this move easier.

A variant right-hand start to Jalapeno. Crouch low with right hand on a gaston pocket and left hand on a good undercut. Make a very long move to the sloper on Jalapeno and then finish up this.