An understated little crag, tucked away where you least expect it and with views to boot. There are 15 climbs in the easy-to-mid-grade range, all climbed by Charlie Creese in the early 1980s. Two steel stakes at the top of the crag, eight metres back, act as belays.
Type:
Wall
Aspect:
North West
| Reference | Title | Grade | Length | Quality | Bolts | Gone | Natural pro | Link to edit content | ||
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| 1 | Sin | 14 | 5m |
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Climb the left side of the face following a vague seam.
Charlie Creese
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| 2 | Acne | 15 | 7m |
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Over the small overlaps.
Charlie Creese
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| 3 | Seagull Groove | 12 | 7m |
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Be prepared to fight off the seagulls!
Charlie Creese
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| 4 | Blasphemy | 22 | 10m |
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Climb the face right of the arete (holds on the arete are out of bounds) in small edges and nubbins. Classic face climbing, though protection is sparse to non-existent.
Charlie Creese
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| 5 | Siene | 18 | 10m |
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The central line, using the seam for gear. Move right onto the arete near the top.
Charlie Creese
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| 6 | Obscene | 17 | 10m |
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Climb diagonally leftwards below the arete formed by the edge of the pinnacle.
Charlie Creese
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| 7 | Apathy | 14 | 10m |
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Climb the left-arching crack.
Charlie Creese
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| 8 | Farce | 17 | 10m |
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Starts in the apex then up through some more difficult moves through the small overlap.
Charlie Creese
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| 9 | Going To Fall | 17 | 10m |
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Climb the slab then make committing moves at the overlap. One bolt and fiddly pro lower down.
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| 10 | Piles | 17 | 10m |
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Starts below a roof. Follow water pods and edges until under the overlap. Like the previous route there are committing moves through the overlap, however this time they are protected by a bolt.
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| 11 | Complacent | 17 | 10m |
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Climb the blunt arete, clipping the bolt on Piles as you pass by.
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| 12 | Pretty Vacant | 13 | 8m |
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Up the right-facing ramp through the weakness.
Charlie Creese
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| 13 | Just Another VS | 15 | 8m |
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Climb over the small roof and up the thin headwall.
Charlie Creese
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| 14 | Anarchy | 17 | 8m |
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Start behind the cabbage tree and climb small ribs and edges.
Charlie Creese
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| 15 | Angular Momentum | 19 | 8m |
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Easy moves off the ground lead to a crux move at the overlap.
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