Split Apple Rock

(12 routes)

In the middle of the corridor between the two main rocks is the superb Split Apple, perhaps the most well known and identifiable rock at Baring Head – although it looks nothing like a split apple.

Reference Title Grade Length Quality Bolts Gone Natural pro Edit link
A Split Apple Low Traverse V4
There are no doubt hundreds of variations on this problem. Here’s one way to do it: Sit start on the left arête and traverse right, using whatever holds you can find below the red line.
Sebastian Loewensteijn, 1998
B Super Low Traverse V6
Even lower, staying below the green line.
1 Arete Left VM
A delightful slab. If you find it too easy, try no hands (V0).
2 Left Arête V3
This problem climbs the left arête on its right side. Sit start, then connect a series of sloping arête holds to finish on top or, before the juggy holds arrive, by rocking around on the slab with you right hand in the vague pocket/scoop feature.
3 Left Wall V0
A good route on the left side of Split Apple. Starting on the polished rail. Head up the wall using whatever you can (the big hole is off-route however) to finish up the V-groove.
4 Casey Problem V2
Staying just right of Left Wall, step up and gain two shallow scoops. Snatch for the upper left-hand jug on Split Apple. Many have barn-doored off. Finish left up the V-groove.
Mike Casey
5 Casey Eliminate V1
From the initial undercling on Left Wall, reach straight through to the upper left-hand jug of Split Apple.
6 More and More about Less and Less V4
Eliminates all but the crimpiest holds. Feet must follow.
John Palmer, 2000
7 Split Apple V0
Undoubtedly the most famous problem at Baring Head. Climb the centre of the wall.
8 Split Apple Dyno V2
For those who think that one point of contact is one too many. From the central jug, get your feet very high and dyno for the top. Phil Castle once split a pair of shorts on this climb as his buttocks tensed on take-off. It was quite a sight, apparently! If you do the whole thing one handed, it goes at V6.
9 Right Wall V2
Avoiding the central jug, climb up and through the obvious V-groove.
10 Right Arete V1
Climb the right arête without using any of the good holds (mainly using slopers and the odd small crimp).

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